Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Took my car in for a pedders safety check today.

Front right shock is leaking and completely empty, wasnt a nice drive there

Radius bushes and bump stops on both sides broken :yes:

Got quoted at $947 to get it all fixed :laugh:

On top of that, my clutch squeaks and my A/C compresser hasnt got power

shudve got an nrma inspection lol.

Anyone know where i could get a better price? Or should i just take this opportunity and pick up a set of coilovers?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/
Share on other sites

id have a look at coilovers or even better SK's group buy on bilstein shocks/springs.

for $947 u mite as well get way better handling ones for a few extra hundred.

i assume theyre gna replace ur shocks with pedders ones?.

also try wd40 on the clutch pedal where it squeaks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/#findComment-2648080
Share on other sites

Even if you take the SK deal you will still need to get them fitted as well as getting the bushes and bumpstops done. You will also need front and rear wheel alignments from the sound of it. I assume the pedders quote included 2 front shocks.

Get a quote from them to include shocks all round and slightly lowered springs - you may be surprised at how little extra it costs.

They generally know Skylines and guarantee their work, which can save in the long run.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/#findComment-2648191
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input guys.

I was looking into getting coilovers eventually anyway, i just dont have the funds to back it at the moment

I called the dealership i bought the car from and gave them an earfull so theyre gonna have a look at it :laugh:

hopefully wont cost me a thing if i have my way.

I called one of the guys on here that was selling parts from his wreck n he wanted $450 for the front set of Tein coilovers. but then if i was going to change the front id want to do the back as well so yeh.

ahhh why couldnt i be rich :yes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/#findComment-2648221
Share on other sites

Well, as they always say, don't spend all of your money on your car. save some for repairs. This is especially so when buying something old like an r32

PS: As said above, sydneykid's coilovers are good, but will cost you more than the 900 odd.

If you're short on cash, maybe buy a set of stock suspensions and bung them in. keep in mind, they'll probably be in similar condition. Also, it'll still cost you the install labour, so it might be worth doing it right the first time.

Clutch squeek - mine does it too. it's not an issue really.

AC - well, yeah...

Edited by MANWHORE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/#findComment-2648859
Share on other sites

DON'T be tempted by second hand coil overs. I've been bitten before myself. If you're going to bother spending money at all, do it right the first time. Worst case scenario, grab a set of decent shocks and some lowered springs. I bought KYB sports shocks and Lovells springs for my old car and it cost me about $650.

There's many options if you save up about $1k.. don't be too disheartened, at least if you fix it properly this time you won't have to worry about it again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/#findComment-2648926
Share on other sites

Yeh ive been calling around to a few wreckers, and suspension places.

theyre all offering roughly the same prices.

The last thing i want to get is used anything coz im pretty sure id just run into the same problem again later down the track.

Id really love to get coilovers but right now i just want to get the car back on the road.

The more i drive it, the worse its gonna get so ive resigned to leaving it sitting in the driveway (such a waste of good skyline)

Decent shocks and springs would probably do the job anyway seeing as i'm not really planning on taking it down to the track but then again who knows

I found the problem with my A/C it was just a blown fuse :P silly me. Gotta love this forum, found a fusebox diagram and all.

:thumbs up: SAU+posters

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142213-just-my-luck/#findComment-2650045
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...