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Back to the begining, must be the inj or ECU tune if fuel connections OK.

Have the Inj been recently flowed or tested for thoughput - I left mine on bench for two months and would not work as gummed up inside.

Are they ticking or actuating that you can hear with a screwdriver on them on your ear? Check plugs for wetness of fuel in each cyl if unsure.

Maybe ROM tune is out in timing or fuel maps on start.

Are you getting any error codes from ECU?

NewKleer's LCD Consult just diagnosed my problems via datalogging software that told me the timing was advancing to 60' BTDC at 3000RPM on the road.

Hold a screw driver on the injector and listen to see if its ticking when cranking, if it is then its a fuel supply issue. Take the fuel feed line off and make sure it purges when on reders. Does it attempt to kick at all? If it does not then I would assume the injectors are not firing what so ever which should indicate a wiring or EC tuning issue as already suggested.

Have you used the correct impedence injectors right? Also after cranking can you smell fuel?

If you can smell fuel than it may be another issue entirely like spark.

The AAC unplugged wouldn't cause the car not to start though.

Maybe start then stall if its adjusted incorrectly but nothing a little press of the accelerator couldn't get going.

is that cause AAC is normally open (and therefore ull get a really high idle is disconnected?)

The idea is to set the aac valve so that idle is 650rpm (R32) with the plug disconnected, with the plug connected (solanoid) its used to raise idle when needed (powersteer, a/c & prevent stalling etc)

The solenoid shouldn't be relied upon to get you your 650rpm as this is when hunting occurs.

If its wound all the way in and the car won't idle the car will still start but stall.

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