Jump to content
SAU Community

What Can I Expect To Pay

Trooper

By Trooper,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
Posted
What can i expect to pay for the following installed in an R33

Upgrade Alternator

Rewire all power/earths to engine bay

False floor with glass lid and aluminium trim

Install cooling fans and maybe LED's in boot

Relocate alarm siren in engine bay

Sound deaden doors and boot

Sub box in corner

Install Amps and cap and sub

Install Tilt sensor

Install Window rollup

Install Headlight sensor

Install trunk release

I will be suppying

0G wiring kit Stinger

4G wiring kit Stinger

Dynamat bulk kit

Dynamat trunk kit

P3 10" sub

P4004 amp

P6001BD amp

SC5-CA cap

RCA's 4ch and 2ch

Alarm add ons

I have attached a pic for the standard i had in mind for the false floor in the boot.

Cheers

post-24130-1162902372.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/142313-what-can-i-expect-to-pay/
Share on other sites
raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

I suggest you you check the Looking for a Professional thread at the top of this forum and get in touch with Marty (FHRX) who would be able to quote on something like this.

Qu: Why do you want to upgrade your alternator though?

Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I suggest you you check the Looking for a Professional thread at the top of this forum and get in touch with Marty (FHRX) who would be able to quote on something like this.

Qu: Why do you want to upgrade your alternator though?

Thanks, waiting on a PM from marty, I PM'd him before asking this question.

Want to upgrade alternator because i dont think its supplying enough. It could be that i just need to re-earth and run new power cables (which I plan to do) but the alternator is the original one, and they are meant to be changed every 40,000kms or something aren't they?

Any rough guess on cost?

Thoughts on the false floor setup?

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

I don't think the alternator would need to be changed as long as it's still working. New earths / deep cycle battery / decent wire should be sufficient.

Cost would vary depending on how complex your install is (eg if you needed fibreglassing, etc). False floor is a nice touch. Probably need more Dynamat too.

If you go ahead with this I want pics! :P

Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I don't think the alternator would need to be changed as long as it's still working. New earths / deep cycle battery / decent wire should be sufficient.

Cost would vary depending on how complex your install is (eg if you needed fibreglassing, etc). False floor is a nice touch. Probably need more Dynamat too.

If you go ahead with this I want pics! :P

I want a simple, neat HOT install. No curved edges, no fibreglass,

MORE dynamat? I thought I had enough with the bulk kit AND the trunk kit.

i dont want any fibreglassing...just MDF and glass (not perspex, want glass i think).

just 1 x 10" sub mounted in the corner in flush sitting box (just MDF with carpet)

got 0G wiring kit for the new earths and a fairly new battery - not deep cycle.

and 4G wiring kit for the two amps (doesnt have to reach far for the R33 battery being in the boot).

One of the guys on caraudioaustralia reckons about $3-$4g.... bit more than i was expecting, might have to bring this down by leaving the alternator out, and maybe sound deadening myself.

Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
  • Author
Posted
$poa !

that would take 2 weeks if done as described and roughly $88/hr in my books

should give you and idea.

$7g???? (88$/hr x 8hrs x 10 days)

Damn

its not a show car install, its just a false floor...didnt think it would cost quite that much $7000 is a lot considering there is no fiberglass work being done.

Alternator is not being changed now, just upgrading the battery to a yellowtop instead.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

I personally wouldnt use actual glass in a boot... But thats me.

Really dude your going to get a lot of different quotes. It comes down to how much time people are going to use doing it. I mean you could get something dodgy for $1k, or spend $10k and get something super fancy all set up 100% right...

Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I personally wouldnt use actual glass in a boot... But thats me.

Really dude your going to get a lot of different quotes. It comes down to how much time people are going to use doing it. I mean you could get something dodgy for $1k, or spend $10k and get something super fancy all set up 100% right...

Why not glass in the boot? I dont want perspex that will scratch, the reason i want a false floor is so that i can still use the boot.

im trying to find a happy medium... 10k is way more than i want to spend.... but i dont want to spend $1000 and have something dodgey. I dont want super fancy. i dont want fancy at all. I just want neat, clean and hot. No curves, no fibreglass, just straight walls, 1 sub box and a flat floor done properly though.

Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ok that knocks a week off the job. custom work is time and usually lots of it.

:( sweet.

It will still be "custom" work so to speak. But straight edges and flat panels. I know how all the little things add up in time, and how long it takes to do unusual shapes etc hence why i am not doing it myself (and i want everything to line up nicely too)

Might still have a bash at sound deadening so Marty has more time to spend elsewhere. I think that is the easiest thing for me to have a go at myself.

Trooper Experienced

Trooper

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeh nice...

I dont want it to be "rice"... well not too much. not over the top

Keep the pictures coming... if anyone has any photos of their installs in 33's post them up to give me more ideas.

Most of the ones i have found from searching are a bit over the top, autosalon style.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      Ben's R32 Gtst Build

      By Roy · Posted

      Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • GTSBoy
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • MBS206
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Shizu
      Returning after a long time!

      By Shizu · Posted

      Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • dbm7
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...