Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest Josho

A Exhaust Control Valve allows you to control the loudness of your exhaust sound. The ECV is installed right after the catalytic converter, and adjustment of the valve is done through a cable run from the ****pit to the valve body.All you have to do is slide the lever installed in the car to get the appropriate sound.

Picture of a ECV

2000500156hi.jpg

They range from $300-$400 a piece

oh ok thanks for the information and the picture. in the option Fan magazine, i saw that their is electric controller that control this Valve, (i think is the new product) am i right ?

is that needed on the car or it is useless?

by lowing down the loudness, will this effect the power as well ?

I have one (uninstalled) .... The car came over with it on and I specifically requested it be removed during the compliance. Pretty much it's as simple as it looks, you have a little plunger device in the car, you pull it and it reduces the flow of exhaust, push it back in and it sits horizontal.

My main reason for having it removed it that I could imagine passengers playing with it and me not noticing and then ripping it up the street .... backpressure not good for turbo :)

I still have the plunger in the car for show just so people ask what it is :D

Peter, not 100 % sure what you're trying to say, but you'll find the ECV is open when horizontal, and closed when vertical. So you just can't keep it closed for a long period of time or whilst fanging it hard .... or better yet, don't have one.

The reason people get a 3" exhaust in the first place is to remove back pressure. Instead of getting ECV's people should just hang on to their stock exhausts.

There is a guy (from around Newcastle IIRC) who makes a more advanced version of these, which is electronically and vacuum operated. It can be set in various ways, so that at low speed it is more closed, resulting in a nice quiet idle when required, and then when you hit it it will open up to allow unrestricted flow. This is all configured for your vehicle, so it does its own thing. It then has an override mode which allows you to have it stay closed at a set point so that if you you are subjected to an emissions inspection, it does not snap open when they rev it.

On a high-HP car with a big exhaust this is a pretty good idea, I reckon, as it allows a compromise between being able to drive around without worrying about being defected, and having no restriction when you want the least amount possible.

I believe AutoNerd did an article on it some time ago, I think that's where I read about this one. Looked pretty trick.

EDIT: Link:

http://www.autospeed.com/A_0883/cms/article.html

Tex

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...