Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know it's been asked before, I did a search. But I couldn't find the answer I was looking for.

My clutch is now slipping, and every time I go for a drive all I can smell is burning clutch!

I have a stock R33. I want to get more power out of it over time, but for now it's stock. I want a clutch that allows me to drive normaly (not the whole "on/off" thing) but withstand a few more burnouts and draging then the standard clutch. Mine got stuffed the other night when a line lock went wrong and the clutch smoked instead of the tyres! :P

Justjap are advertising a "performance clutch" for around $500. Does anyone know much about that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14318-time-for-a-new-clutch/
Share on other sites

Do'h... :P

Not good..

I think there are two basic ways you can go for the power upto 200rwkw - 240ish.....

First is to go a full faced organic or ceramic clutch with a heavy presure plate, and second would be a 5 or 6 puck brass button clutch.

The full faced heavy presure plate will bite a little quicker that a factory one, hold more power, and give your left leg the Arnie look :)

The 5 or 6 puck clutch is very light (same as factory) and bites very quick and will hold more power.

Me and James (you know the other James) ahve put two 6 puck clutches in his and a mates car and both are holding great. While mine has a heavy presure plate type (car came with it).

If you don't mind a heavy peddal I'd go with the one I have, but it it would really pi$$ you off, then go with the 6 puck.

I think James got his 6 puck for $500 exchange or something like that.

If you want to compare the two, just let me know and we'll go for a spin out to James place so you can feel his, and feel mine - clutch that is !!!!

J

I went a Heavy Duty with 30% more clamping pressure ORGANIC Clutch.

At first I was happy with it but soon realised after a really hard launch at High RPM's the Organic compound would fade and cause second gear to slip with a hard change.

Go for a Kevlar based clutch with at least 30% extra clamping force. 30% isn't that much more noticible and still allows you to sit at the lights without you leg shaking.

Don't go Organic. Really depends on how much grip you are getting. If I launch at 4200-4500rpm it will fade the clutch. Organic has a higher fade degree so it can handle it.

When I say launch I don't mean dump the clutch, I mean ride it out at 4200-4500rpm to minimise wheel spin while the turbo is at max power.

This allows IF you run low tyre pressures and a decent set of tyres to get no wheel spin in first and allows you to sit next to a 4wd Launch and even bog you down if you give it to little revs. Depends on road surface also.

Don't waste your time with Organic. If I remember on SDU GTRBen or previously GTS4Ben used to use a Kevlar clutch and could ride the hell out of it yet it still would not slip or burn.

I run a 9 puck ceramic cushion button single plate with a 1016kg pressure plate (had it tested). Heavy on the leg - yep! I needed to get both master & slave cylinders full reco'ed to handle it! Driveable - easy as pie. Doesn't mind a you giving it a bit of slippage. Hasn't slipped on me yet.

Clutch kit cost - $720

The stock GTS25t pressure plate is supposed to be rated @ 800kg according to a few local websites. I've since been told this is incorrect & it is actually 650kg!? If so 1000-1100kg is a decent upgrade!

I have a similar problem to CanberraR33, but only get the burning smell after a hard launch (lasts for a few days) and it is definitely slipping on full power at high revs. Don't want a button clutch as it is a "daily driver". Jay95R33 and -Joel- , where did you get your clutches from? Anyone else suggest where I can get a good R34 GTR clutch?

whatsisname.. $720.. is that all for a 9puck?!?

I would probably go that over a kevlar standard when this clutch dies.

Do a search on SDU as GTRBen or GTS4Ben = same person... used to use the Kevlar's. I havn't used one only a organic that like a standard set of brake pads fade hence slip.

So Matt.. we will soon see a change of those best ET's in your sig soon.. :P Good Luck.

Joel,

I got a good price :P But they don't retail for much more anyway. This is basically the same kit - http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/mall/ck06.asp

Ring ACS/Xtreme & get a quote for the 1050kg pressure plate kit.

I'm hoping the ET will come down by @ least 0.1sec :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...