Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the black dotted strip is there to hide the glue that holds the screen on. The button you are referring to is for de-icing the wiper blades, which isn't really an issue here in Orstraylia so I wouldn't worry about it. It operates the same way the rear window demister does, (the heating element IS under the black strip tho) so getting it working on a new screen shouldn't be that big an issue, but I wouldn't bother myself...`

I am pretty sure you can buy the heating elements at Repco / supercheap etc and then it would just be a case of connecting it back to the switch.

Some stageas including mine,(referred to as 'cold area' in Nissan FAST, probably those sold north of Tokyo) have heater strips at bottom of windscreen to prevent the wipers icing to the windscreen (also heated side mirrors and possibly larger battery for cranking), not sure if the heater strips are part of the glass or behind it. Operated by the switch shown in photo.

Ahhhhhhh ok, I was kind of on the right track the :laugh: I only made the assumption based on the pics in the green stagea manual (in Japanese) that came with the car :D I couldn't care less about that though so I'll just get aftermarket glass fitted.

Ahhhhhhh ok, I was kind of on the right track the :P I only made the assumption based on the pics in the green stagea manual (in Japanese) that came with the car :D I couldn't care less about that though so I'll just get aftermarket glass fitted.

hmm... just got a stone chip on mine today. :) Lucky my insurance comes with 1 free windscreen replacement a year.

hi guys, just read this, you must be the luckiest lot around, for a 33gtr windscreen fitted in the uk its 2500dollars or 1000 ukpounds at nissan, cheapest is about 600uk pounds, could do with you guys sending a couple of hundred over..bernie

  • 10 months later...
Contact Steve from RMA imports. He got me one for $165.00

I must also recomend these guys. I've been putting mine off (and its pretty bad) because of cost etc.... Called them up this morning and is getting me a brand screen for $275 will be picking it up on saturday. Anyone know how much fitting is roughly alone???

post-26232-1184291516_thumb.jpg

Nah to the right of the ignition key barrel. I wasn't sure what it did, the only reason I thought it was something to do with the windscreen was from reading the factory japanese manual I have and going by the pics :blink: And yes I know the a/c heated air is to demist.

EDIT: realised answered above

Edited by gebba54

Ok well after a fair bit of a stuff around I am now going with Novus who are coming to my work tomorrow to supply and fit the windscreen for me. Has quoted $325 supplied and fitted which I think is amazing. I will post again tomorrow just to confirm thats what it actually cost when the jobs done. If you compare that price with my last quote posted above which was for the screen alone I think I know which ones the better deal so as long as they turn up I'll be happy. Sorry to say but for anyone else looking to replace a windscreen (in Brisbane at least) I would say to go to Novus instead of the other. Won't post it up here but PM me if you want the details.

Will let all know tomorrow how it goes. Sure beats the quotes I was getting last year when it first happened. :thumbsup:

o'briens came to the spraypainters where i had the car,(stonechips) the day after i enquired, fitted the screen(i only dealt with them over the phone), shannons paid approx $275, was very happy with the service.

o'briens came to the spraypainters where i had the car,(stonechips) the day after i enquired, fitted the screen(i only dealt with them over the phone), shannons paid approx $275, was very happy with the service.

Your kidding right. They were the first guys I tried last year and the price they quoted me was about 3 times that. Well it got fitted today anyway. Very friendly service and did a great job. Would recomend them again for sure (Novus that is :D )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...