Jump to content
SAU Community

Help? Is My Battery Farked?

Xizor

By Xizor,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Xizor Mentor

Xizor

Posted
Posted

Hi all had a f**king nightmare of a night with the bitch (car). Got to the car and it wouldnt start, makes insane clicking noise like the starter motor is farked or something. Tried jump starting from engine bay fitting but didnt work, eventually we did it directly to the battery in the boot and it worked. Does anyone know why?

I drove around for a little, 15-20 mins to get home, turned it off... tried to start. f**ked again. Jump started it directly via battery in the boot and she kicked over. Any ideas fellas?

To be honest i dont understand how it could of even been flat, or do our cars need a pretty solid charge to even kick over? I was driving around last night for a few hours so surely that should of charged it enough and it was perfectly fine this morning, i definitely didnt leave anything on. This has happened twice before but both times it didn actually start of its own accord after a few goes. But not this time.

I do have quite a few gauges installed, aftermarket halogens and stuff, highish end pioneer headunit and very good front splits WITHOUT an amp (yet)... so if me driving usually with all these things +aircon on i dunno could i be drawing more power than its charging? Sounds stupid to me.

But, im very paranoid and scared now. What should i do? Why on earth didnt it jump start from the front and only the back? Im charging the battery overnight so we'll see if it has enough charge in the morning to start of its own accord. If it does, im sure as hell not using my lights or cd player or anything!!

Fark i dont know. Help guys?? Im thinking i should invest in a really good quality/powerfull battery first. Recommendation or advice??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143456-help-is-my-battery-farked/
Share on other sites
Pax-Ottomanica Experienced

Pax-Ottomanica

Posted
Posted (edited)

If its making that tick,tick,tick,tick.... sound, yeah battery is flat. Jump start it, drive the car for a while it recharges and turn engine off then try to restart it again if its same problem then your battery needs replacing!

Make sure batteries + and - heads are clean (dont know its name right now), make sure theres none of that white powder kind stuff around it.

Batteries need replacing every 3-4 years!

Edited by pretender-
Xizor Mentor

Xizor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi guys,

Thanks for the replies.

Battery was on the trickle charger overnight, looked to of given it enough power according to my bro, dad, and the voltage meter tester thingo. But car still wouldnt start. I managed to rip the battery out after destroying my hands trying to get the rear strut out when im all agro... gonna have bruises later. So yeah got the battery out its some jap shit farely dirty too, especially the terminal that gets earthed. acid powder shit big time.

We did some test thin on the liquid in the battery, looked like a big thermometer haha, it basically kept saying the battery was shit, despite it rearing ok off the multimeter.

SO... i need a new battery. Please, recommendations, i wanna go get 1 this morning. Dont care about cost. I dont want this problem again... and im PRAYING this is the problem.

Xizor Mentor

Xizor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've just spoken with a few battery places and they say they have the odyssey but dont really recommend it due to $$$ and the fact all its ratings and shit are american standards not aussie which makes them sound alot better than they are.

One guy says im better off with a calcium sealed battery, much cheaper, and much more powerfull. Same one in Gen3 v8's and stuff apparently??? Its like $100 cos they are the wholesaler where as the suitable odyssey is double the price and not as good??

Help guys!!!

PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

Had the same problem a little while ago !

Best battery I found was Supercharge Gold 36 from Peps Autospares for about $125. Its 710 cold crank amps ( Stock Skyline ones are about 280 ! )

Cold cramps (CCA ) is the number of times that the battery can crank the motor over from dead cold before it goes flat.

Make sure you get a negative left hand terminal. The battery is a low maintaince sealed unit and comes with a 36 month warranty.

Oh and you gotta get a larger battery bracket

Hope this helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
×
×
  • Create New...