Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i just put in a turbotech boost controller to my r32 gts4. i've set it to about 13psi. it hits this initially but then constantly drops off to below 10 psi. even before i put in the boost controller i could see the boost rarely held but it would only drop by 1 psi max. i took off the BOV to eliminate a leak there (advice from a mechanic) but even without it, the boost wont hold.

any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

thanks heeps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143693-boost/
Share on other sites

I'm using the turbotech boost controller on my r32 gtst, running 13-14psi, it does drop off slightly but only to 11-12psi, not below 10. Not too worried, it's all temporary because as soon as I get some management the RB25 turbo and R34 injectors are going in :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143693-boost/#findComment-2681479
Share on other sites

I'm using the turbotech boost controller on my r32 gtst, running 13-14psi, it does drop off slightly but only to 11-12psi, not below 10. Not too worried, it's all temporary because as soon as I get some management the RB25 turbo and R34 injectors are going in :(

You can't put 34 injectors in an rb20 unless they are GTR and why you'd bother if your gettin a stock r33/34 turbo i don't know... waste of time.

For the boost issue, get yourself a decent actuator (HKS etc) with a 14psi spring and it will give the boost controller nothing to do :P Or even an rb25 one at 10psi and the boost controller should be able to make up and hold the extra 4psi no problems, if your tryin to make an average boost controller make the actuator do 100% more ie double what its supposed to of course you'll have some problems! Upgrading the actuator would be the easiest way to get what you want i think

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143693-boost/#findComment-2682054
Share on other sites

They are top feed injectors, apparently of an R34, eitherway I have the rail they came with and a smart mechanic :P for $50, if they are good, then there no problem.

For $300 the RB25 turbo shall be a nice upgrade while I save for an r33 frontcut :) and I will be using the RB25 actuator with the RB25 turbo.

Not everyone has cash to throw around so why bag on cheap yet effective (hopefully) upgrades. A real waste of time is spending thousands on your RB20.. an RB25DET is a better place to start.. too bad they only came in boats :rofl:

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143693-boost/#findComment-2682118
Share on other sites

Im not bagging you at all, just don't waste your money on those injectors, ull need a re-tune and they won't make any more power, ive seen rb20 injectors flow 280rwhp and you won't even make that with a standard rb25 turbo on 1bar ++ of boost... Save your money on the injectors :rofl:

For the amount ive paid for 300rwhp outta the rb20 i would have a pretty much standard rb25, so i disagree on it bein a waste of time but rb25 is an awsome upgrade in an r32 thats for sure!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143693-boost/#findComment-2682156
Share on other sites

Management is the bit that's got me stuck :P the injectors only cost me $50 with a rail and are a darn sight newer than the stock ones, so so if they work, cool - leaves a fair bit of safety with the duty cycle - if not, whack the standard ones back in.

I'm trying to decide whether to get a dyno tune and remap once it's done for about $700 OR saving a bit more for a powerfc as long as someone could convert it back to rb25 setup. I can't really justify the $1500 for an AP Eng powerfc if I can't use it on the next engine :rofl:

What kind of setup are you running jazza?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143693-boost/#findComment-2682327
Share on other sites

an RB25DET is a better place to start.. too bad they only came in boats

a r32 with a full tank of fuel weighs the same as r33 with a nearly empty tank. they are 4% heavier, but have over 20% more power.

but yes, an rb25 is a much better place to start. a guy in town just spent $8000 doing up an rb20. he put a stupidly big turbo on. he makes full boost at 5800rpm, and his redline is at 7200rpm. max power is just under 250hp (~185kw), and off boost it is hopeless. now for a darn sight less than $8000 he could've bolted a stock rb25 in and made the same power and had a much nice car to drive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143693-boost/#findComment-2682450
Share on other sites

Well he obviously has NO idea really because to make that power with that lag is fkn stupid anyway, the weight differences between a R33 and R32 ARE noticeable, id know there is both cars sitting in my driveway, the 32 is much more nimble but the 33s motor means you don't notice it much in a straight line. The injector deal for $50 sounds incredibly cheap, if you can make em work then for your reasons i agree with what your doing.

I have done most of the bolt on mods, turbo with gate, injectors, pump, cooler/zorst, boost controller etc etc

Makes 300hp @ rears with full boost (20psi) by 3900rpm which is plenty fine for the street, to tune it i simply got the ecu rom'd and remapped!

My mate has the EXACT same mods on his rb25, ie same turbo + supporting mods inc injectors etc and makes 324rwhp on about 18psi and full boost by 3100rpm... is it worth spendin 5k+ to get everything set up properly on an rb25 for 24rwhp more and 800rpm less lag? Yes it makes more torque down low but i can't justify the expense unless you are going for 400+ hp, then the rb20 is just no good and you should look at a built rb25 or rb26 :P

Edited by jazza08
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/143693-boost/#findComment-2682860
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...