Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I use motul, seems lots of import users use that, ppl say its better then shell helix, bloody expensive though but worth it for ur baby :P fully synthetic of course. i think the rating is 5w40 or sumthin. so it starts easy and remains the same throughout the rev range. its doin well cos i was on the track yesterday doin laps and the only thing that overheated in my car was the CAT, i think i destroyed the stuff inside it which means POLLUTION (oh well) :P

Clint-O

Motul 8100 Synth - $55 from Autobarn (UAS wanted 65)

NGK Iridium Sparks - $13.50 each

Ryco Fuel Filter

Ryco Oil Filter - $9

Nulon Radiator Fluid *Make sure you definately check your coolant levels*

My car seems to run better milage with the ryco filter, and the oil holds better, prolly due to oil quality, UAS said the genuine nissan oil filters are better and arnt that much more expensive ~$13

Try and get a 100% synth oil no matter what, they warm up quicker and can move more freely around the vital areas.

  • 4 months later...

back from the dead...

so we've established that a fully synthetic oil should be used, but what weight/thickness should be used? i believe it should be heavier/thicker than the oil in a RB25DET, which people on this forum generally agree should be 5w40, but i can't find any info on the RB25DE.

i've just done my first 5000kms so i need to change pretty soon.

has anyone got a workshop manual that states what oil nissan recommends?

Cheers,

Greg

Guest RedLineGTR

5w-40w

the 5w is the thickness of when the car is cold and starts up..so having a thick old for startup dosent really help at all to lubricate the engine when its cold and causes more wear on startup from cold. the 40w rating is the highest temp or how thin it can get and the high temps.

The only oils i would consider is 5w-40w maybe 5w-50w...10-40w and maybe 5w-30w also...nissan dealers have the original oil which is 7.5-30w which has a nice gtr logo on it.

thanks for explaining it all, i had a vague kind of idea that the numbers were idicating viscosity but didnt really know what that meant :D

the mobil site recommended Mobil 1 5W-50 for an RB30 (they didn't have RB25) and that sounds about right from what you and others have said. i'll look into the motul because a lot of people seem to be using it. me being a tightarse, it will probably come down to price when deciding between mobil1 and motul. anyway thanks for your help.

cheers

greg

ive just put shell helix ultra 5w-40, ive made out in the maual that they reccomend 7w-40, sumthing not very common in auto shops here! im thinking of putting 10w 40 in next time just to see if there are any differences. i thinking opf using mobil R next time round, its what they use in dads M3

Originally posted by Greg

hi all,  

I'm about to do my first oil change since compliance and since i don't have an owner's manual i was wondering if someone out there would be kind enough to post up what type of oil i should be using (ie weight etc). Is it the same as the RB25DET?  

Thanks,

Greg

Where can you get the owner's manual from anyway? I really need one of these ey.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
    • Hi Jasmine. How's the war going?
×
×
  • Create New...