Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, im looking at importing a car form japan, and have the freight cost, but am unsure of any other costs that may arise. car would be around 4-5 years old and i know the basic stuff like tyres and seat belts need to be changed, but anything else to look out for would be great.

and time frame as it takes them 2 weeks to get a shipping plan to me so eta on customs etc. as i know this can take up to a month or so.

thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144086-importing-vehicles/
Share on other sites

subscribe to the mailing lists at www.j-spec.com.au and www.prestigemotorsport.com.au ..... they both have cost calculators and have stock you can check the fob prices to get a guide.

My R34 arrived in Adelaide 21 days after me paying for it (it came direct from Nagoya). It had to sit a further 3 weeks on the docks while the import approval was finalised. Compliance cost around $5k and took 8 weeks for mine (which is above average time frame). Remember to factor in the cost of replacing every single non-standard part for compliance.

dont know whether i should post this here, but either a forester sti if i decide to use it as a daily otherwise a b4 as a tarmac rally/hillclimb car. more looking for a race car, and theres not much in aus so that y im looking overseas.

condition does not worry me, and im wondering if i could skip compliance as it would maybe just be registered as a rally vehicle with a temp permit for events.

My R34 arrived in Australia 90 days+ after i paid for it. It had to sit a further 1 or 2 months on the docks which cost me a good $3400 alone for storage fee. Compliance cost around $3.5k and took 10 weeks, even sent it down from QLD to SA took me 1 week.

paid my first installment on 25 Nov 2005 and first register the car in S.A. on 22 May 06 :)

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modules/costCalc2/

On that page there, is a cost calculator for importing cars, no doubt alot of people would have browsed over it from time to time. hope that helps.

thanks guys, looking at importing an evo 7 for improved production class.

nebody familiar with putting a 2.4 stroker in any type of car?

i hope to do most of the modifications myself and depending on what level i have to go to as to whether it will be road registered or not.

Im guessing if i dont want to comply it and keep it as a rally registered vehicle i wont need to worry about compliance, which may be a quicker and more cost effective option.

thanks guys, looking at importing an evo 7 for improved production class.

nebody familiar with putting a 2.4 stroker in any type of car?

Ahhhh you might want too check the CAMS Mannual to see what you can and can't do to this Evo! Mate is building a RA40 Celica with a 3S Turbo to run next year!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Get an inspection camera up there. 
    • Yeah, but look at the margin in viscosity between the 40 and the 60 at 125°C. It is not very large. It is the difference between 7 and 11 cP. Compare that to the viscosity at only 90°C. The viscosity axis is logarithmic. The numbers at 90 are ~15 and ~35. That is about half for the 40 wt oil and <half for the 60. You give up viscosity EXPONENTIALLY as temperature rises. Literally. That is why I declare thicker oil to be a bandaid, and a brittle one at that. Keep the oil temperature under about 110°C and you should be better off.   Having said all of that, which remains true as a general principle, if you have indeed lost enough oil from the sump that the pump was seeing slightly aerated oil, then all bets are off. That would of course cause oil pressure to collapse. And 35 psi is a collapse given what you were doing to the engine. Especially if the oil was that hot and viscosity had also collapsed. And I would put money on rod or main bearings being the source of the any noise that registered as knock. Hydraulic lifters should be able to cope with the hotter oil and lower pressure enough to prvent too much high frequency noise, although I am willing to admit it could be the source.
    • Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
×
×
  • Create New...