Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys...

1997 R33 GTS - T S2 WING BLOODY REMOVAL

see pics below

OK AS YOU CAN see in the pics i have removed 4 x 10 mm bolts from under the bonnet.

2 located under rubber grometts either side see below:

post-32432-1164271986.jpg

2 more located under plastic clips where the right side also has an electrical cable to unclip for the brake light.

post-32432-1164271970.jpg

left

post-32432-1164272001.jpg

right

____________________________________________________

so now these are undone my wing feel like it is still secured to the car...

post-32432-1164272010.jpg

could these bolts seen in the picture above in the middle of the 3 bolts be attached to the wing?

i really need this off as i have a gtr wing ready to go on!

IS THE BASTARD JUST GLUED DOWN WITH SIKAFLEX OR AM I GOING TO BREAK IT WHEN I YANK IT OFF WHEN LIFTING THE WING GENTLY THE ACTUAL BOOT COMES UP WITH THE WING.. NO FLEX IN WING OR SIGNS OF IT COMING UP.. I DONT WANT TO BREAK IT..

HELP ME REMOVE IT!

PLEASE GUYS I NEED IT OFF ITS HIDEOUS AND WAS DESIGNED WITH A RULER!

post-32432-1164271937.jpg

post-32432-1164271955.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/144473-removing-factoring-wing-r33-s2/
Share on other sites

LOL, i just tried to take mine off so that i can clean under it, there is so much shit there. Unfortunatly, no good, so someone shed some light. I simply used a soft bristle brush to get under it to clean it, but still scratched the paint work, spent the last hour trying to polish it all out. DAM SOFT NISSAN PAINT.

LOL, i just tried to take mine off so that i can clean under it, there is so much shit there. Unfortunatly, no good, so someone shed some light. I simply used a soft bristle brush to get under it to clean it, but still scratched the paint work, spent the last hour trying to polish it all out. DAM SOFT NISSAN PAINT.

think Mr_G knows how to do it.

Im pretty sure there are two other bolts that needs to be removed..

Well hes done it just recently on another s2, and his old 33 ages ago..

Hopefully he reads this thread.

think Mr_G knows how to do it.

Im pretty sure there are two other bolts that needs to be removed..

Well hes done it just recently on another s2, and his old 33 ages ago..

Hopefully he reads this thread.

thanks guys for no help lol cept for siddr20 lol ... i got it offf

ne one who wants to know how its just the 4 bolts explained at start of the thread then stand behind the car 2 arms under the wing and slowly ease your bodyweight onto the wing in an upward direction and the strong japanese christmas tree clips will eventually pop and off comes the wing ne one needing help PM me.. but that summs it up :(

after all bolts are undone it still might be sikaflexed on best way to check is get some fishing line and go underneath where its still attached to the car this should cut through the sikaflex... thats all i can offer hope that helps

thanks guys for no help lol cept for siddr20 lol ... i got it offf

ne one who wants to know how its just the 4 bolts explained at start of the thread then stand behind the car 2 arms under the wing and slowly ease your bodyweight onto the wing in an upward direction and the strong japanese christmas tree clips will eventually pop and off comes the wing ne one needing help PM me.. but that summs it up :(

*EDIT* had it sitting on the page and left the computer.. good to see its off..

  • 5 months later...
hey, sorry to open this old thread. Just taken mine off, whats the best way about filling the holes how have u filled them in? who did u take it too

panel beater to weld in some circles to close the gaps, then file it back, small layer of filler to ensure smooth, prime boot and repaint.

  • 1 month later...

Hi,

I have currently purchased a GTR wing...and noticed there are 3 bolts on the under side of the wing.

So previously having a s2 wing there are no holes for wing. Ive been reffered to drill some holes in the boot to mount, just wondering if this is the best idea, or get rid of 1 or 2 bolts so not so many holes need to be drilled, and painting the edge cuttings (underneath or on top of the boot?)

And if anyone can tell me the size nut i need off the top of their head, cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...