Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well got my car tuned yesterday and we had run into a problem with not getting enough fuel. using a Altronic SM4 ECU. we were hitting 95% on the injectors (nismo 555cc) around the 260rwkw, mark also have a Sard fuel pump in the car.

Anyway my mechanic said it is the Sard Fuel reg i have on the car was the problem. As he has seen this problem before on a WRX with a sard reg on it.

He over came the problem with a bosch fuel reg for a VL commodore on the WRX, and said the sard one wouldn't keep up or something along those lines.

so will be trying the standard one back on the car and see if that fixes the problem or do the bosch fuel reg upgrade....around $60-$80 mark.

any info on this problem would be great...........and calling out to Sydneykid for a answer! :laugh:

Well got my car tuned yesterday and we had run into a problem with not getting enough fuel. using a Altronic SM4 ECU. we were hitting 95% on the injectors (nismo 555cc) around the 260rwkw, mark also have a Sard fuel pump in the car.

Anyway my mechanic said it is the Sard Fuel reg i have on the car was the problem. As he has seen this problem before on a WRX with a sard reg on it.

He over came the problem with a bosch fuel reg for a VL commodore on the WRX, and said the sard one wouldn't keep up or something along those lines.

so will be trying the standard one back on the car and see if that fixes the problem or do the bosch fuel reg upgrade....around $60-$80 mark.

any info on this problem would be great...........and calling out to Sydneykid for a answer! :spank:

well im making more than that and i have a sard reg so i dont see that being the problem ...whats the fuel pump rated at ...?..your injectors are more than enough..i would check fuel pressure also ... and what are the a/f's at ..?

cheers

i cannot possibly imagine it being the problem. a standard fuel reg will flow enough for that pump and those injectors. a sard one will too. you shouldn't need to be running pressure any higher than stock either. 555cc injectors are ample for 260rwkw as is the sard pump as is the sard reg.

my GTR is running 440cc injectors, nismo pump, stock reg and making 280rwkw with no problems appart from injectors very near their limit.

had a fuel pressure and fuel flow guage on it on the dyno?

there is no guess work involved in pin pointing the problem, you don't have to try different parts, use the correct tools to begin with and save time, money and engines.

if your mechanic is guessing who have a bad mechanic/dyno tuner.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...