Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Got an issue with my g/f's stock R32 gtst. Basically it won't start, it cranks strongly though.

Now I have a feeling that it's a dead fuel pump and/or broken fuel pressure reg.

Here's what I've done:

1. Pulled the fuel line off the fuel rail (The line that comes off fuel filter), and put the end in a coke bottle.

2. Turned reds on. Could barely hear it priming.

3. Checked bottle... no fuel.

4. Cranked.... checked bottle... no fuel.

Have I pulled the right fuel hose off? I just want to see if the fuel pump is actually pumping anything through.

Is there anything else I can check?

What do you think it could be?

Any help is appreciated.

thanks heaps guys,

wil..

Background:

- A few months ago the car started getting hard to start in the mornings. Had to tap the throttle to get it started.

- Recently it's gotten harder to start.

- A week ago there was a very strong fuel smell in the cabin.

- Today after a bit of a drive, we parked, then when we came back to the car it started ok, but then when I came to a stop after driving for only 2mins the car almost stalled. Had to keep my foot on the accelerator to keep it going.

- This happened all the way home. The car was also struggling to move - seemed to have gone into rich and retard (well that's what it felt like).

- Got it home...

- Left it for a few hours...

- Now can't start it at all.

Guest tosboost2

i had almost this same problem.....hahah well actually still have the problem.

the car is very very hard to start in the morning, it pops and farts then will get going.

but sometimes the car will go into retard mode(will have about half the power it should & will sound like a wrx)

i have cleaned the aac valve, got a new airflow meter & will be checking the coilpacks, sparkplugs tomorrow.

im also suspecting that the injectors might be going.

i hope this helps you/helps identify yours/my problem.

Cheers

Scott

Thing is the car won't start at all now. Doesn't appear to be getting any fuel through. I'm trying to figure out if it's the fuel pump or not.

I think I've pulled the right fuel line off to check. Does anyone know if fuel should be coming out of the fuel hose that comes out of the fuel filter when priming and cranking?

wil,

out of the filter then yes fuel should be coming out, have you tried the line that comes into the filter? as it could the be the filter that is the issue.

2nd, try to test the power connection on the 2 wire plug on the fuel tank cap... see if its getting power, and getting atleast 12v

if no power, could be fuse, relay or ecu.

try direct power from a spare battery to the fuel pump, see if fuel comes out the filter to help check the above.

gimme a call if you get stuck.

Awesome. Thanks heaps Chris :mellow:

Fuel filter shouldn't be a prob. Only changed it 3000km's ago. But I'll check it. Might need to buzz ya later though if I run into probs with my n00b mechanic skills.

Ok..

I've checked the power to the pump it gets 12V when i turn reds on.

Still no fuel coming out at the fuel hose that goes into the fuel rail.

Pulled pump out. Whacked it hard with a big screw driver. Put it back in... same deal.

I'm thinking it's the fuel pump. What does everyone else think?

Ok..

I've checked the power to the pump it gets 12V when i turn reds on.

Still no fuel coming out at the fuel hose that goes into the fuel rail.

Pulled pump out. Whacked it hard with a big screw driver. Put it back in... same deal.

I'm thinking it's the fuel pump. What does everyone else think?

I will gurantee its the fuel pump! I had the same thing happen to mine just the other week. First of all it started splattering & carrying on & over a couple of days got worse very rapidly, untill it would not even turn over. I did the same thing you did with the coke bottle & not a drop came out. I replaced the fuel filter & still the same problem. I then checked to see if the pump was getting power all good there. So i came to the conclusion it was the fuel pump. I replaced it with a Walbro intank & bobs your uncle its running as good as new.

Good luck with it!

if there is power to the pump, it has to be the pump then!

easy to change, grab a walbro 255l/hr hp or bosch etc.

You can wire in as a direct replacement, or run a +12v from battery and use a relay (there is a guide on this floating around on the forum tech articles section)

woohoo.

Just finished changing the fuel pump with a new higher flowing one :).

Surprisingly simple on the 32. Not nearly as fiddley as the 33, and you don't need to sit in the damn boot to get it out ;).

Thought I'd test it first, so I put the fuel hose that normally goes into the fuel rail into a coke bottle.

Turned reds on.

Then saw fuel flowing very f**king quickly into the coke bottle! So quickly I was worried it would over flow.

Anyway, I did a little dance. (Well not really... but kinda).

Then I put the fuel line back into the rail. Turned reds on. Crossed my fingers, then cranked her over.

Started right up.

I did a really big dance then. :( (Well not really...)

Now to fix an overheating issue. Thermostat is screwed I think. But that's another thread.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...