Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I used a lpg gas solenoid to cut off the air flow to the wastegate and it works good you can change from std boost to hi from a switch in the drivers seat. I have not tried changing it from hi to low under full load.

(look at the attachment)

post-28604-1164448540.gif

Edited by RB SANDY

I found that the car makes more low end power on std boost (std ecu) the car has a rb25 with a r33 s1 ecu.

also did you try chinging it at W.O.T

Edited by RB SANDY
I found that the car makes more low end power on std boost (std ecu) the car has a rb25 with a r33 s1 ecu.

also did you try chinging it at W.O.T

Mine was fine changing it at wot.

Regarding the more low end power.. The reason it probably feels that way is because the boost doesn't snap on as hard giving it an increased laggier feeling.

Other than that.. unless its leaning out in the low end it won't be making less low end power.

It really is silly pushing boost up unless you know for certain you have dropped a 'new' fuel pump in it. My std fuel pump died at ~160rwkw.

If its feeling gutless in the low end on high boost throw it on the dyno and see whats up with it.

because my car has a rb25 in it I changed the fuel pump to a r33 one that had done 70,000k on it so i dont think its that it would be r&r mode the hi boost is at 11.5 psi but its not all that bad.

67,000km's and my pump couldn't hold more than 160rwkw.

It was a genuine 67,000km's, the car was like bran spanking new.

This was 5years ago. So that would have made the car ~9years old.

So similar now to using a fuel pump from a 1997 R33. :D

Have the afr's checked with a cheap $30 power run.

  • 2 weeks later...

i did the dual stage hack in my r33 then got a real boost controller

theres a big thread in the tutorial on the r33 dual stage hack

why not just run the highest boost you can all the time?

thats why i moved to a real controlller, just didnt see the need for a dual stage system. but good on u for trying something and writing it up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...