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I used a lpg gas solenoid to cut off the air flow to the wastegate and it works good you can change from std boost to hi from a switch in the drivers seat. I have not tried changing it from hi to low under full load.

(look at the attachment)

post-28604-1164448540.gif

Edited by RB SANDY

I found that the car makes more low end power on std boost (std ecu) the car has a rb25 with a r33 s1 ecu.

also did you try chinging it at W.O.T

Edited by RB SANDY
I found that the car makes more low end power on std boost (std ecu) the car has a rb25 with a r33 s1 ecu.

also did you try chinging it at W.O.T

Mine was fine changing it at wot.

Regarding the more low end power.. The reason it probably feels that way is because the boost doesn't snap on as hard giving it an increased laggier feeling.

Other than that.. unless its leaning out in the low end it won't be making less low end power.

It really is silly pushing boost up unless you know for certain you have dropped a 'new' fuel pump in it. My std fuel pump died at ~160rwkw.

If its feeling gutless in the low end on high boost throw it on the dyno and see whats up with it.

because my car has a rb25 in it I changed the fuel pump to a r33 one that had done 70,000k on it so i dont think its that it would be r&r mode the hi boost is at 11.5 psi but its not all that bad.

67,000km's and my pump couldn't hold more than 160rwkw.

It was a genuine 67,000km's, the car was like bran spanking new.

This was 5years ago. So that would have made the car ~9years old.

So similar now to using a fuel pump from a 1997 R33. :D

Have the afr's checked with a cheap $30 power run.

  • 2 weeks later...

i did the dual stage hack in my r33 then got a real boost controller

theres a big thread in the tutorial on the r33 dual stage hack

why not just run the highest boost you can all the time?

thats why i moved to a real controlller, just didnt see the need for a dual stage system. but good on u for trying something and writing it up

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