Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Series 6 RX7.

couldnt have said it better myself :D

i wait for the day i get my hands on a fd lol.

but yes. i bought my '90 32gtr for 18k start of this year, only problem ive had so far is blown turbos and i do admit that was my fault for upping the boost to 1bar.

other then that jus had the few minor maintenance fixes: brake pads/rotors needed to change and split old vaccum hoses/cooler pipes etc (usual stuff you'd have to change on a old car). still runs llke a dream basically and not 1 bit regretting buying the car. 18k and it has served me well even as a daily driver. so yeah doesnt necessarily mean jus cause u pay 25k+ that there wont be anything wrong with it. i could very well slap a for sale sign on mine for 25k and you couldnt even tell i bought it for 18k.

if you want peice of mind get one with a rebuilt engine already :)

Hey guys,

thanks for all the feedback....definetly something to think about....I will keep you posted on what happens.....I have found a dead stock 95 r33 gtr for $25000 with only 60,000 on the clock so might have a look at that!

Hey guys,

thanks for all the feedback....definetly something to think about....I will keep you posted on what happens.....I have found a dead stock 95 r33 gtr for $25000 with only 60,000 on the clock so might have a look at that!

I bet it was only driven on Sundays, 100 yo owner never revved past 2000, never had an accident , rust or a panel repainted !!!

^^ anyone wanna place bets on how long before that one spins a bearing :happy:

More than likely it has a very slight knock already ........ so one or two thousand easy k's i would say...much less if hard driven.

ive had my r32 gtr for nearly 2yrs now and its been DREAM.just a few little things like 80kservice etc..just starting to mod now... fingers crossed shell take kindly to power and not break

Drive both (not to the shops, a proper drive) if you can get a steer of a mates or whatever, or even offer someone with one some cash to go for a squirt - like $200 or so, its only $400 together, and thats pretty cheap on the long run. Also, if that saves you buying the one you dont want, its WELL worth the cash

Then also ask the owners about costs to keep them on the road etc

Also do a search for "How much have you spent on your GTR" or something like that - so much knowledge in there for you :happy:

Drive both (not to the shops, a proper drive) if you can get a steer of a mates or whatever, or even offer someone with one some cash to go for a squirt - like $200 or so, its only $400 together, and thats pretty cheap on the long run. Also, if that saves you buying the one you dont want, its WELL worth the cash

Then also ask the owners about costs to keep them on the road etc

Also do a search for "How much have you spent on your GTR" or something like that - so much knowledge in there for you :happy:

good idea i think. id of hATED to buy a car i wasnt happy with

^^ anyone wanna place bets on how long before that one spins a bearing :happy:

jeez man, u speak like u know every GTR inside out. there are plenty of people who have bought GTR's for cheap and have not had any major problems. Maybe its time u face reality and go learn some economics.

you might think that, but the market dictates how much theyre worth. with the volume of importing of skylines, its natural that they fall. plus petrol prices and p-plate laws have made their prices fall even faster. im not saying that theyre not phenomenal cars, all im saying is that the prices have fallen badly. just because u might source one for $25,000, it dusnt mean that its a load of crap...its just a consequnce of the bad market. the same car cud have sold for 30,000+ not so long ago.

Do you own a GTR? Have you ever owned a GTR?

Im sorry, but you sound like another one of these guys that thinks they are a guru on GTR pricing and value because they are subscribed to the J-Spec mailing list.

i dunno what ur going on about buddy. all im saying is that their prices have fallen..im sure other people think this too..probably explains why it takes so long to sell one and even then its well below the mark that the seller wants for it. just for the record, no i havent owned a GTR but im actively looking for one and have been for some time. A year ago i couldnt find one for less than 30-35k, but now the 95 and 96 models are predominantly in the 25k to 30 range. its not just the car mate, its how much people are now willing to pay for them.

Edited by moonus
i dunno what ur going on about buddy. all im saying is that their prices have fallen..im sure other people think this too..probably explains why it takes so long to sell one and even then its well below the mark that the seller wants for it. just for the record, no i havent owned a GTR but im actively looking for one and have been for some time. A year ago i couldnt find one for less than 30-35k, but now the 95 and 96 models are predominantly in the 25k to 30 range. its not just the car mate, its how much people are now willing to pay for them.

well buy one .... i recently improted early this year and i had a hard time finding decent examples for under 30 grand let alone a series 3 like i wanted. i think you need to check actual costs in japan for something other than the cheepies that j-spec and others a like send through. We're only trying to give advice to stop the dreamers like yourself getting burnt and crying broke cause you've blown you motor in your "80,000 km" gtr.

i say the only way to resolve this is to hear from people who have purchased GTR's be it r32 for approx 20k or r33, 25 to 30 k. Im sure there's plenty of people who have, and have had no probs. But, hey ill leave it to them.

i say the only way to resolve this is to hear from people who have purchased GTR's be it r32 for approx 20k or r33, 25 to 30 k. Im sure there's plenty of people who have, and have had no probs. But, hey ill leave it to them.

Now I didn't mean to start an argument........but hey....its becoming very entertaining...lol

before i hand over my hard earned I will get it fully sussed out by a mate who will take it into his shop an run it on a dyno and pressure test turbos...ect

Last thing i want is a heap of Sh*t sitting in the garage

depends what u want man. 33gtst will not have the guts or handling of a 32gtr, but it's still not a slow car, and will be newer therefor easier to maintain and probably attract less negative attention (ie, little pricks keying the car!), also more comfy inside.

on the other hand a 32gtr is an iconic piece of motoring history, specially here in oz and is just an all out great car. personally haven't had to fork out for any repairs yet, but its sure to happen. just bear in mind that that's a likely factor when buying one.

but yeah, i made my choice, and 32gtr was the go and i do not regret it at all.

i dunno what ur going on about buddy. all im saying is that their prices have fallen..im sure other people think this too..probably explains why it takes so long to sell one and even then its well below the mark that the seller wants for it. just for the record, no i havent owned a GTR but im actively looking for one and have been for some time. A year ago i couldnt find one for less than 30-35k, but now the 95 and 96 models are predominantly in the 25k to 30 range. its not just the car mate, its how much people are now willing to pay for them.

Well i sold mine (R33GTR) in 2days , now that not a long time at all and let me tell you it wasn't $25 k either...

I would advice you to have a few $k spare when you buy a cheap GTR just in case .......You never know you may need to rebuilt the donk...even if ithasd 30-40k k's on the clock.

Now I didn't mean to start an argument........but hey....its becoming very entertaining...lol

before i hand over my hard earned I will get it fully sussed out by a mate who will take it into his shop an run it on a dyno and pressure test turbos...ect

Last thing i want is a heap of Sh*t sitting in the garage

Anthony, sounds like you have the right idea.

Make sure you do a compression and leak down test on the engine and check oil pressure carefully to ensure your not buying a timebomb. Get it on a hoist and get someone that knows what they are looking for (preferrably a panel beater) to inspect for previous accident damage.

When I sold one of my previous GTS-T's, CRD in Sydney did the inspection for the new owner and were very very comprehensive including dyno testing, full body inspection, electrics check and engine test.

It really pays to have people in the know sus out your new toy before you buy it to avoid expensive surprises :mad:

Best of luck

i say the only way to resolve this is to hear from people who have purchased GTR's be it r32 for approx 20k or r33, 25 to 30 k.

Go the 32..theres only one Godzilla; as for buying one....I doesnt matter even if you get a good one if you start playing with them it cost $$$$.

I purchased my 32R for 25K just over a year ago, stock, straight body, excellent interior, good engine and 66Ks (genuine in my and everyone who seen its estimation). Now its 430RWHP @ 1.3 and i'm up to my neck in it...comes out of W.A. Suspensions today *giggle like small child on Xmas*

89 GT-R. If you can find a good one, the suspensions sagged, so thats say $3Kish for SK kit + install. Full service including timing belt, dyno, fluids, then alarm, stereo, rego, insurance, police and other unwanted attention; then comes the pods, the zaust, the EBC and the PFC then the clutch then the cam gears then you blow something up..gearbox or turbo or god forbid something expensive. And that does not mean your R will be the biggest stick on the block. Still wanna play????

Dont get me wrong bang for buck my R eats cars that cost 3 times what it owes me but it costs real $ to say.."yeah its a GT-R and yes it is fast"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to !
    • As I've said elsewhere, I am using the stock intercooler piping path in the engine bay, and a return flow cooler, and making ~250 rwkW (without any effort put into trying to turn it up past there just yet) and expect to be able to make some more, and frankly, I would be perfectly happy with 260-270rwKW. This is peak road Skyline usability territory. You go past there and, sure, the car will snap necks more when it's on boost, but it will also break shit all the time, cost a (even larger) fortune in tyres, etc etc. Anyway, I also do not like the over-the-fan pipe path, and you don't have to do it.
    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
×
×
  • Create New...