Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, so the R33 GTSt has arrived, I've had it complied (costing 50% more than the import broker said it would), I've had it roadworthied (after fitting new front discs & disconnecting some dodgy wiring) & made the appointment at VicRoads to have it registered.

Everything's going smoothly until the VicRoads bloke decides that the compliance plate is stuck on with the wrong type of rivets!!!!!:D

He says they need to be "tamper-proof rivets", so the plate can't be removed & swapped onto other cars.

So he says it can't be registered until the right rivets are used.

Fair enough I say & go looking for someone to remove the old rivets & attach the new ones.

However, no-one seems to know about these rivets except Carizma in Richmond & they're too busy to do the job until next week.

SO ..... can anyone recommend a place that can do the job at short notice?

Any decent compliance place should be able to help, but I'm struggling to find any in the yellow pages.

PLEASE HELP ME if you know of a compliance workshop in Melbourne that I can try.

PS: This is urgent.

Thanks in advance.:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14488-compliance-workshop-help/
Share on other sites

which vic roads did you go to.??? I assume you mean the plate with the VIN no. on it not the compliance plate. Same thing happened to me at oakleigh lucky had got there early. Vicroads guy sent me to the workshop next door and they stamped the VIn no. onto the strut tower then went back and got it regoed. I thought the law was the VIN No. not the compliance plate itself... Your compliance place should really fix it.

I went to the Vicroads office in Carlton (should've gone to one up the bush somewhere!).

It wasn't the VIN number, it was definitely the compliance plate he was referring to - the green one.

My appointment there is at 10:45 tomorrow morning, so maybe I can get up to Oakleigh beforehand & have that workshop look at it.

Still, in the meantime I've printed off all the rego & compliance info from the Vicroads website & it doesn't mention tamper-proof rivets anywhere, so if worst comes to worst I'll ask the bloke to show me the rule that says I need them to be tamper-proof.

Anyway, thanks for the help & advice.:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...