Jump to content
SAU Community

Bolt On Replacement For Rb20 Turbo

R32 _ULTIMATE_WEAPON
 Share

Recommended Posts

R32 _ULTIMATE_WEAPON Collaborator

R32 _ULTIMATE_WEAPON

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok I'm going to put in:

RB26dett cams

Adjustable cam gears

mandrel bent manifold ( direct bolt-on to the stock turbo )

RB25 turbo

GTR Injectors

GTR fuel pump

full 3" turbo back exhaust

600x300x120 intercooler

So what kind of air fuel computer do I need or what kind of plug n play would be right

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
ok I'm going to put in:

RB26dett cams

Adjustable cam gears

mandrel bent manifold ( direct bolt-on to the stock turbo )

RB25 turbo

GTR Injectors

GTR fuel pump

full 3" turbo back exhaust

600x300x120 intercooler

So what kind of air fuel computer do I need or what kind of plug n play would be right

Do not bother with RB26 cams unless you want to lose power.

Next thing is save the money you were going to spend on the manifold. Also dont worry about the injectors either as an R33 turbo wont stress the std injectors.

LOL, hate to sound negative but dont use the GTR pump either. Do you really want to replace a 14 year old fuel pump with another 14 year old pump. Grab an 040 fuel pump, new, flows better and goes in easily and is cheap

The money you have saved not buying all that other gear i would get a plug and play Microtech and get it tuned well. If you want to run injectors then the Microtech will run any impedence injector and so mnay tuners know their way around them.

LOL, also, dont bother with the coils either. You cant run big boost with the R33 turbo as they will fall apart if you run too much boost....so the syd coils are well up to the task of 170-180rwkws you will get out of the R33 turbo. If one of your coils fail and your car starts sounding like a WRX then consider the coils, but even still the sytd coils in good health are fine. Thing is its often easier to get the coils rather then mess around trying to get good std coils

Hope that helps

salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted

You have an RB20, get a remap. Very effective.

And if you're only running an RB25 turbo, I really cant see the advantage of running expensive aftermarket computers.

Roy is right about the pump, injectors, coilpacks and manifold though.

R32 _ULTIMATE_WEAPON Collaborator

R32 _ULTIMATE_WEAPON

Posted
  • Author
Posted

LOL, hate to sound negative but dont use the GTR pump either. Do you really want to replace a 14 year old fuel pump with another 14 year old pump. Grab an 040 fuel pump, new, flows better and goes in easily and is cheap

ok then were can i get a 040 fuel pump and I was told and read on this site that the gtr cams are about 1mm bigger and are better?

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Been there and done that with the cams....and trust me when i say dont bother wasting your money buying them let alone your weekend installing them only to find the car wont run, and if it does it will be a laggy POS. (more then usual :/)

The Bosch 040 is commonly available from any number of speed / performance shops. Its very easy to find and commonly stocked. Just dont buy a Walbro pump.

Jago Mentor

Jago

Posted
Posted
LOL, hate to sound negative but dont use the GTR pump either. Do you really want to replace a 14 year old fuel pump with another 14 year old pump. Grab an 040 fuel pump, new, flows better and goes in easily and is cheap

ok then were can i get a 040 fuel pump and I was told and read on this site that the gtr cams are about 1mm bigger and are better?

You'd need to do a solid lifter conversion to get the cams running right.

  • 3 weeks later...
DOUGMO Rising Star

DOUGMO

Posted
Posted

i needed injectors,

went from 160rwkw with standard turbo and injectors at about 92% duty

on 14psi

put on the rb25 turbo and could only run 8-9psi making 140rwkw @ 100% duty in 3rd gear onwards,put in gtr injectors now at about 70% duty,much safer

that was my experience anyway

DOUGMO Rising Star

DOUGMO

Posted
Posted

im running a walbro (genuine before anyone asks)

standard fpr though(so standard rail pressure,

on the road it was not a prob, but on the track maxxing out

at 9psi in 3rd up @ 7000rpm,

it made 660nm @ wheels in 4th on dyno from 3800rpm

and only drops to about 620nm by 6000rpm,nice and flat.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Im really surprised you are running 70% injector sccle on the GTR injectors? Like i said im running about 70% for 234rwkws on GTR injectors with a Bosch 040 and standard fuel reg etc????.

I was also making 180rwkws at 8psi with the std injectors and Trust TD06 before i changed computers and injectors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...