Jump to content
SAU Community

Bolt On Replacement For Rb20 Turbo

R32 _ULTIMATE_WEAPON
 Share

Recommended Posts

R32 _ULTIMATE_WEAPON Collaborator

R32 _ULTIMATE_WEAPON

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok I'm going to put in:

RB26dett cams

Adjustable cam gears

mandrel bent manifold ( direct bolt-on to the stock turbo )

RB25 turbo

GTR Injectors

GTR fuel pump

full 3" turbo back exhaust

600x300x120 intercooler

So what kind of air fuel computer do I need or what kind of plug n play would be right

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
ok I'm going to put in:

RB26dett cams

Adjustable cam gears

mandrel bent manifold ( direct bolt-on to the stock turbo )

RB25 turbo

GTR Injectors

GTR fuel pump

full 3" turbo back exhaust

600x300x120 intercooler

So what kind of air fuel computer do I need or what kind of plug n play would be right

Do not bother with RB26 cams unless you want to lose power.

Next thing is save the money you were going to spend on the manifold. Also dont worry about the injectors either as an R33 turbo wont stress the std injectors.

LOL, hate to sound negative but dont use the GTR pump either. Do you really want to replace a 14 year old fuel pump with another 14 year old pump. Grab an 040 fuel pump, new, flows better and goes in easily and is cheap

The money you have saved not buying all that other gear i would get a plug and play Microtech and get it tuned well. If you want to run injectors then the Microtech will run any impedence injector and so mnay tuners know their way around them.

LOL, also, dont bother with the coils either. You cant run big boost with the R33 turbo as they will fall apart if you run too much boost....so the syd coils are well up to the task of 170-180rwkws you will get out of the R33 turbo. If one of your coils fail and your car starts sounding like a WRX then consider the coils, but even still the sytd coils in good health are fine. Thing is its often easier to get the coils rather then mess around trying to get good std coils

Hope that helps

salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted

You have an RB20, get a remap. Very effective.

And if you're only running an RB25 turbo, I really cant see the advantage of running expensive aftermarket computers.

Roy is right about the pump, injectors, coilpacks and manifold though.

R32 _ULTIMATE_WEAPON Collaborator

R32 _ULTIMATE_WEAPON

Posted
  • Author
Posted

LOL, hate to sound negative but dont use the GTR pump either. Do you really want to replace a 14 year old fuel pump with another 14 year old pump. Grab an 040 fuel pump, new, flows better and goes in easily and is cheap

ok then were can i get a 040 fuel pump and I was told and read on this site that the gtr cams are about 1mm bigger and are better?

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Been there and done that with the cams....and trust me when i say dont bother wasting your money buying them let alone your weekend installing them only to find the car wont run, and if it does it will be a laggy POS. (more then usual :/)

The Bosch 040 is commonly available from any number of speed / performance shops. Its very easy to find and commonly stocked. Just dont buy a Walbro pump.

Jago Mentor

Jago

Posted
Posted
LOL, hate to sound negative but dont use the GTR pump either. Do you really want to replace a 14 year old fuel pump with another 14 year old pump. Grab an 040 fuel pump, new, flows better and goes in easily and is cheap

ok then were can i get a 040 fuel pump and I was told and read on this site that the gtr cams are about 1mm bigger and are better?

You'd need to do a solid lifter conversion to get the cams running right.

  • 3 weeks later...
DOUGMO Rising Star

DOUGMO

Posted
Posted

i needed injectors,

went from 160rwkw with standard turbo and injectors at about 92% duty

on 14psi

put on the rb25 turbo and could only run 8-9psi making 140rwkw @ 100% duty in 3rd gear onwards,put in gtr injectors now at about 70% duty,much safer

that was my experience anyway

DOUGMO Rising Star

DOUGMO

Posted
Posted

im running a walbro (genuine before anyone asks)

standard fpr though(so standard rail pressure,

on the road it was not a prob, but on the track maxxing out

at 9psi in 3rd up @ 7000rpm,

it made 660nm @ wheels in 4th on dyno from 3800rpm

and only drops to about 620nm by 6000rpm,nice and flat.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Im really surprised you are running 70% injector sccle on the GTR injectors? Like i said im running about 70% for 234rwkws on GTR injectors with a Bosch 040 and standard fuel reg etc????.

I was also making 180rwkws at 8psi with the std injectors and Trust TD06 before i changed computers and injectors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • BOLGE
      R34 Plug Identification

      By BOLGE · Posted

      Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...