Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you can imagine having another steering rack or the rear, like you have on the front but smaller, and turning the wheels like the one does on the front but much less, only a degree or 2 thats how hicas works. When you opt for a lock bar you completely remove the rear power steer rack and put a hollow tube (HICAS lock bar) into its place to permanantly lock the wheels in a set position IE: however much toe you want on the rear.

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Sorry to hijack this thread, but I'm still trying to get an idea of how my car will feel with the lockbar.

When the HICAS light does come on, my steering feels really sluggish, like there's no power steering, but when it's off (which is most of the time, thankfully), it feels beautiful.

I'm assuming the lockbar completely eliminates the sluggish feeling, because nothing will be happening in the rear end then? Just a nice solid rear wheel drive with power steering?

Sorry again... :thumbsup:

Yes, i believe you are having the same problems as mine, i spotted your thread too. Mine feels same as you describe, however my light is constantly on. Im just gonna take a gamble and get the bar. they are cheap and i believe it will be an easy fix.

Yes, i believe you are having the same problems as mine, i spotted your thread too. Mine feels same as you describe, however my light is constantly on. Im just gonna take a gamble and get the bar. they are cheap and i believe it will be an easy fix.

Mine's kinda not all that often, fortunately (took it for a spin tonight, wasn't on at all).

Good luck with the bar :thumbsup:

how did the bar go.

when u either unplug the hicas from under the car or from the ECU under the parcel shelf did it fix it?

Bar fitted today. Car drives great. best it has felt. all problems eliminated. turned out being a very cheap fix, rather than spending heaps trying to determine the problem.

Btw markimak i just removed the electrics from the bar, not the ecu. if u get rid of the ecu ur steering goes to shit. but if you just remove the electrics from the bar, it wont fix ur problems, because it allows the tyre rod ends to slop around all over the shop, felt bad...

Buy a hicas bar they're a sweet fix:D

Edited by siiick

I got a problem with the HICAS as well, but it is a bit different than you guys.

It is ok when I am driving the car around. The HICAS light comes on after few minutes I entered the freeway( I was driving 100 only)and it started on until I restarted the car. Everything is ok when the light starts on, nothing wrong with the power steering, handling is the same. It is just a bit annoying when I look at it.

Do you guys know what is the problem? And do I need to get the hicas lockbar as well? How much will that cost?

Edited by fullo

You need to do a diagnostic test on the HICAS system. Dont ask how you do it as ive posted it up lots of times already. Might have already said how in this thread! There were a few threads on the same topic so take a look.

The steering seems possibly better since i cleaned the connectors on the hicas bar. hicas light still remains on all the time. The diagnostic test i found is as follows.

1.Start car in neutral.

2.Turn wheel left and right 20deg a few times

3.Pump the brake 5 times then once more. (all of this within 10 seconds of starting the car)

4.Put it in gear then out

5.Then drive 15 feet forward or backwards.

The hicas light is supposed to flash a code or something, is this the test you are referring to?

I've read one like this, the problem is as follows:

2. Turn wheel left and right 20deg a few times, i've also read turn it left and right 5 times.. does this mean left 5, right 5, or left,rightleftrighleftrightleftrightleftright, or is it infact just a few turns? The skys-the-limit- handbook says the same thing, i dont get it)

3. Pump the brake 5 times then once more.. wtf is with that, if it's 5 then once more, why not say 6? or do u do 5 then wait then 1 more? The skys-the-limit- handbook says the same thing, i dont get it)

4. Haven't heard of putting it in gear and then out

5. need to keep speed under 10km/h

Thats going by the tutorial in the skys the limit handbook and from what you've said

Anyways my problem is that no matter what i try i just can't get into it.

Can someone please go enter into it and write down, in here exactly what u did

Edited by 123456
Bar fitted today. Car drives great. best it has felt. all problems eliminated. turned out being a very cheap fix, rather than spending heaps trying to determine the problem.

Btw markimak i just removed the electrics from the bar, not the ecu. if u get rid of the ecu ur steering goes to shit. but if you just remove the electrics from the bar, it wont fix ur problems, because it allows the tyre rod ends to slop around all over the shop, felt bad...

Buy a hicas bar they're a sweet fix:D

yeah u cant control ur toe in or out if u dont lock the rear.. best not to remove the ECU

No.

the steering wheel has HICAS sensors. i think left to right and speed.

my light was on and the steering became heavy after 80secs because hicas wasnt getting a speed signal from my speedo because it was spinning freely inside the cluster. Once i fixed that by removing the cluster and repairing a cracked piece of plastic, HICAS was getting its speed signal and everything is back to normal.

This sounds like what might be my problem, ever since I haven't had a speedo, my HICAS light comes on a lot, and steering becomes very heavy. As soon as I turn the car off and straight back on again its good for like ten minutes or so.

I have been told the speedo wouldnt have anything to do with it??? Its my actual speedo cable thats not connecting, I need a new one. Do you think by getting a new one this will solve my HICAS problem?

Thanks in advance :devil:

  • 7 months later...

The HICAS computer needs a speed signal, and that comes around from the speed-sensor in a big loop, which passes through your speedo.

So yeah - no speedo = no HICAS. (My speedo's got a dodgey connection, and when it dies, HICAS soon follows)

Hope that helps.

p.s. the steering has speed-sensitive valving, so when the speed signal goes away, the steering goes into limp-home mode, which is minimal asistance.

This sounds like what might be my problem, ever since I haven't had a speedo, my HICAS light comes on a lot, and steering becomes very heavy. As soon as I turn the car off and straight back on again its good for like ten minutes or so.

I have been told the speedo wouldnt have anything to do with it??? Its my actual speedo cable thats not connecting, I need a new one. Do you think by getting a new one this will solve my HICAS problem?

Thanks in advance ;)

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

my problem is similar to most, my HICAS is always on most of the time, and while it is its very heavy, if i fit the lockout bar will my steering have the heavy feeling? will it eliminate power steering all together? or will it just eliminate movement of the rear and my p/s in the front will be normal?

cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok heres one for ya's

I've just installed a new motor in my r32 and have removed the HICAS completely.

I removed all the lines, gutted the part of the power steering pump that provides fluid for the HICAS, installed a lock bar and removed the computer.

Now the HICAS light is on only when the ignition is off and the steering seems more heavy then usual :D

I assume that the HICAS is in limp home mode and causing my steering to be stiff, but how does it control the power steering pressure?

Cheers

so after reading a few more threads from my search i think i've got a solution...

There is a solidnoid on the steering rack which controls power steering pressure, the factory setup controls it so u have light steering at low speeds for manovability (ie parking) and stiff steering at high speeds for stability (ie back straight at qr :( ).

So i'm guessing i need to hook that up to my haltech and program the same setup, something for my tuner to do i think.

What u guys reckon?

Mick, I would first get some caster adjusters and try that out. When the HICAS is disconnected it stops the slow speed light steering from kicking in, but with extra caster it allows easier steering so it isn't noticeable. Also pull the light from the dash and it should be fine. Try get about 7 degrees caster.

yeah we used adjustable castor rods on the race car to dial the understeer with great results, but r they legal for street cars?

It would probably be cheaper to wire up the solanoid, but what speed do i set it at? 80kph?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...