Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is worth reading...taken from wikipedia:

Z-Tune

Nismo originally designed the concept of the Z-tune in 2002 when Nissan was putting an end to the R34 Skyline production. The first Z-tune was built in 2003, using a used 2002 Skyline GT-R V-Spec II. It was built with a concept RB26DETT 'Z1' engine. This engine was based on Nissan's Le Mans GT2 and GT500 racing experiences. As with the racing vehicles a strengthened engine block and stroked crankshaft were utilized. The engine was also bored. With the new displacement of 2.8L and upgraded turbo-chargers the Z1 produced 370 kW (500 hp). The Z-Tune had a 0–100 km/h (0–60 mph) time in 3.2 seconds and has a top speed of over 195 mph.[citation needed]

Nismo was then given the approval from Nissan to build Z-tune models for the Nismo anniversary. Nismo then purchased 20 used R34 GT-R V-Specs, each with less than 18,000 miles (29,000 km) on the clock, they were then completely stripped and were resprayed to a "Z-tune Silver," a special color exclusively for the Z-tune.[18] For each of the 20 production models, the 2.8L engine was revised to allow it to reach 8000 rpm. The turbochargers were supplied by IHI in Japan. The engine is advertised as making as much as 370 kW (500 hp) (for warranty reasons). This second revision of the Z-tune engine is called the 'Z2'. The bodywork is designed with the same functional components used in Nismo's GT500 racing cars, such as engine bay vents on the hood and fenders, as well as wider fenders for wider wheels. The Z-tune is also improved with an aggressive suspension setup from Sachs, and a specially designed Brembo e brake system.

The entire car is essentially handmade, with the car being completely stripped and re-built from the chassis up. Engineers reinforced and stiffened the chassis seam welding in key areas such as the door seams and door frames and added carbon fiber to the strut towers and transmission tunnel and the engine bay, completely redesigning the suspension, drivetrain, engine, gearbox and other components so as to work at maximum efficiency and reliability as is expected of a road-going vehicle. Although Nismo planned on building 20 cars, they ceased production on only 19 (including 2 prototypes).[19] The Z-tune is often regarded as the most expensive (prices for some have been known to exceed US$180,000) street legal GT-R ever built.[citation needed]

Hehe...

Well there's a R34 GTR M-Spec waiting on the docks of Kobe bound for some lucky owner in Oz.

Great cond - great price.....

She hasn't been adopted ('er bought) yet, so......

I'll let Iron Chef Whispers tell the rest! :)

What colour is it Terry and how much??

May I allow Iron Chef PMs reveal the price, but I shall insert a couple of Pics now for you.

Kozo-1.jpg

Kozo-2.jpg

Kozo-3.jpg

* It has done about 65,000 genuine Kms (Nismo cluster installed when new at Nissan)

* It is owned by a Japaneses motor technician

* It has full history

* It has had a life away from the salt of the sea or snow

* It won't be appearing in any Jap Auction as far as I know

* Modifications include GT-SS Turbs > 500HP (but I don't know what psi or RON)

From the outside it looks awesome, even the seats. But the engine bay is so dirty with quite a few mods. I guess it's for the guys who don't buying highly modified cars.

Although, there is/was an mspec for sale at xtreme motorsports in Sydney, it wasn't a millennium jade but more of a gold colour?

Edited by dlai

Out of interest, how would u rank from the least to most regarded r34 when looking at the vspec, vspec2, n1, z-tune, mspec etc?

I would go from the top....

Ztune

N1 (VSII then VS)

Nur Mspec (mainly for rarity)

Nur vspecII

mspec

Vspec II

Vspec

Having said that, rarity wise i believe there are more vspecs than nons... and today, i would still take a great condition non VS over a poor condition Nur...

just my 2cents..

From the outside it looks awesome, even the seats. But the engine bay is so dirty with quite a few mods. I guess it's for the guys who don't buying highly modified cars.

Although, there is/was an mspec for sale at xtreme motorsports in Sydney, it wasn't a millennium jade but more of a gold colour?

Silica Breath perhaps? (see below)

3913073625_08fc90b5eb_b.jpg

beat me to it

But your post still prompted me to think,...

it must be a bit difficult to find what rims would suit Silica Breath...

I'm guessing that gold, titanium, chrome, white or even black rims might not suit that coloured car?

Perhaps just matt silver - hmmm, maybe bronze? Thoughts?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...