Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

"Everybody else" still seems to be Birnie and myself.

I haven't changed any of the corrections, and it's still running just fine.

In the absence of information from any of the experts regarding what latency or lag time actually is, it seems that it is not a critical figure. The correction for flow rates, is.

hah, yeah that's right Dale ! :)

.....although Ben has joined the club too

Just check my settings as i forgot all about it since being tuned by The Hitman,

He has em setup as 72.0 % and +0.10 Latency?? Go figure.

As far as the 72% goes, i guess his full tune would be applied to that setting so i wouldn't advise using that as a temporary figure to get to the tuners......stick with the 82.5..it's a proven working setting, then let the tuner do whatever they want.

PS...The Hitman RULZ !

Any upadate on the latency for the S15 injectors? Is -0.06 the setting everyone else is still using?

Getting my tune tomorrow.

444cc and 0.5 as i posted only a page ago :)

I used the below and put in +0.06 as calculated. Also used the 82.5%. Tune done at MRC Castle Hill. Got a nice 247.4rwkw (18psi peak trailing back to 16psi).

Tough to test in the wet though. Spins from 4000up.

Good tune at a reasonable price.

Thanks Birnie and Dale.

How do I configure larger injectors?

Configuring larger injectors into the PowerFC is quiet simple and takes only a few moments. You need to know the following information before you can continue

Current injector size

Current injector latency

New injector Size

New injector Lag time

Injector Size and Latency (standard units)

Unit Size Latency

RB26 444cc/min 0.772msec

RB25 370cc/min 0.528msec

SR20 (Jap Spec Manual) 448cc/min 0.584msec

Nismo 480cc 480cc/min 1.100msec

Rx7 550cc 550cc/min 0.730msec

Aftermarket New Units 600cc/min 0.810msec

To work out new INJECTOR correction and latency;

Old SIZE / New Size = Correction

New Latency - Old Latency = Latency Correction

John plans to install 600cc injectors into his RB26 VL Turbo. The following figure's are used;

444 / 600 = 0.74 * 100 = 74.0%

0.81 - 0.77 = +0.04 msec

So he would enter 74% for correction and 0.04 as new latency

Once you have switched to larger injectors you should still check your AFR's with a wideband to ensure they are safe and acceptable.

For a list of common OEM injectors and their settings try here;

Injector Chart - Side Feed OEM

Injector Chart - Top Feed OEM

i forgot to ask. When I plug the Hand controller in again (and when it's dry :P) Ill do a few 2nd gear to redline pulls and check the peak.

He didn't say that they were close to maxing out but I reckon they wouldnt have much left.

Edited by benl1981
i forgot to ask. When I plug the Hand controller in again (and when it's dry :P) Ill do a few 2nd gear to redline pulls and check the peak.

He didn't say that they were close to maxing out but I reckon they wouldnt have much left.

best to check duty in higher gears. 2nd doesnt have enough load.

  • 8 months later...

I thought I'd crunch some numbers about RB25DET injectors and larger direct fit replacements to put y'all in the picture .

Std - 370cc , S15 T manual - 450cc , Nizmo 555 and 740cc .

If you divide the std 370 by 450 555 and 740 you get 0.82 , 0.66 , 0.50 .

So I guess this means the S15 Terracotta coloured ones are ~ 18% larger , 555's are 33% larger , 740's are 50% larger .

I ended up buying new Nismo 555's from a member here which I reckon would be fine for my power requirements using PULP , trouble is if you ever decide to use high ethanol fuel blends such as E85 (if it becomes readily available) you need injectors approx 33% larger than you would with PULP to maintain chemically correct AFR's for E85 .

Where that leaves me is line ball (555's vs 370's and PULP vs E85) so in hindsight if I knew then what I know now I would have bought Nismo 740cc injectors .

Nismoid uses/used 740cc Nismo's I believe in an RB25 and had no issues at idle or light loads - on PULP ?

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...