Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i got a rb20det just got the ecu chiped and with my injectors apparently i have to run a ballast resistor all i know about the injectors is they came in a hks computer and injector pack they are 550cc and say denso on the side the injector impedance is about 2-3 ohms...and if i use them without the resistor it will fry the ecu?

6.8 ohm 15watt ballast resistor sound right?

also have a custom twinfeed fuel rail will the stock fuel pressure regulator be alrite?

rb20det

-fmic

-pod

-bov

-hks adjustable cam gears

-550cc injectors

- twin 10mm lines from tank (stock fuel line is used as a return)

-gtr fuel pump set up externally

-rb25det turbo high flowed with a vl .60 front cover (built to hold 22psi)

-3.5" dump 3" cat back

-q45 afm

-18psi

aim is 350rwhp but am expecting anywhere from 300rwhp up

its a r32 gts-4 should i run it on the dyno is 4wd or rwd?

also what does it have more hp in? ive had it on the dyno completely stock in rwd and get 175.4 rwhp

cheers vance

Edited by OGR88 R32

I think 10 ohm is more on the money. At least 10 Watt as well.

I don't do hp but have seen a 20 run 260rwkw as a stock short engine. It was backed off for a little longevity.

All the Nissans run with 5.5-6ohm resistor packs as do a lot of other cars that I know of. Honda, Mazda etc.

I picked up a R30 Skyline's resistor pack for next to nothing.

I did a few calcs a while back, from memory it turned out I required some where around 17w resistors.

Good 17w 6 ohm resistors are difficult to get at a reasonable price. A total of 6 worked out to nudge close to $100.

Grab an R30 or 280ZX resistor pack from the local wreckers, much cheaper and the resistors are designed for the purpose. :O

The male plug can be purchased from your local autostore for ~$2.95, the less soldering required the better.

I wouldn't be reving or driving the car if your not running a resistor pack, it WILL cause the injector drivers to fry and worse case catch fire. It 'may' be ok on idle and at low rev's but mid to high rpm and your most definitely asking for trouble.

Be safe, just dont drive it until its sorted.

IF you decide to go separate resistors here's what 'should' be used.

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/injector%20resistor.htm

Remember thats in USD.

Attached below is a pic of my R30 resistor pack. Looks the same as the GTR item just with a different plug.

post-382-1166023087.jpg

yeah they are out of a toyota and ive got the plugs sorted i really need to get it goin by the weekend so il see if i can get my hands on the r30 resistor pack seems like the way to go thanks heaps for all the help everyone especially cubes

cheers vance

As a rule of thumb if you're using a JECS or Denso injector and have to change the plug then the unit is of a different impedance. The best way to check is to use a multimeter and test the resistance.

hey cubes, have you got a pic of what the resistors look like without the cover on top of it?

i brought a resistor packing thinking it had covered and when it turned up i was missing them, so i want to confirm whats happening

GTS25t injectors are 11.5 ohm

Geoff, am I right to guess that RB20DET (R32) injectors are the same resistance as the R33 RB25 ones? and the only difference being the wey they feed into the engine? Ive never sat them side by side...

cheers

-Jez

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...