Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

stock boost on a rb20 is def 10 psi!!! that is why when people buy rb25 turbos they put the actulator off the rb20 turbo to run 10 psi... def sounds like u have a split in the hose or something like that... or a faulty guage.

I bet if they put the stock exhaust back on it wouldn't run 10psi though.

Stock for an r32 is 100% 10psi.

It sound like the wastegate is stuck closed, or is not opening properly.

As people have said before, check the vacuum hose going to the wastegate actuator to see if it is leaking (or not even there).

If the following is correct, does this mean that a standard R32 is quicker than an R33???

10 psi is factory for an R32

7 psi is factory for an R33

not really, the 33 turbo is a bit bigger and more efficient which means it can make more power with less psi. boost isnt the only thing that determines which car is faster. thats on paper though, in reality it mostly comes down to driver

Different capacities, different compression ratios, different cam profiles, turbo efficiencies and different mapping.

And as OLik eluded to, 10psi isn't just 10psi. Pressure is force over an area. Therfore if there is a bigger area, there will be more airflow for a given pressure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...