Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I'm just curious of the potential of standard turbo's for 1/4 mile racing.

Please list specs of mods WITH STANDARD TURBO'S.

me

- trust airfilters

-14psi

standard everything else

12.665

confirmed at benaraby raceway dragstrip

awaiting new run with dumps and exhaust and front pipes.

  • Replies 108
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

R33 GTR ('95) with:

- Apexi filters

- HKS front pipe

- 3'' high flow cat

- Dual N1 Apexi cat back exhaust

- 13 psi

- adj. cam gears

- standard clutch (slipping on 3rd and 4th run)

12.391 @ 107mph - Calder Park

Now have Nismo twin plate clutch, interesting to see difference

GAWD I CANNT WAIT!!!

I've already got :

HKS cat back exhaust

HKS Pods

Removed boost restrictor

Very soon I'm getting :

Power FC

Adjustable Cam gears

Inevitably at the same time I'm told a twin plate will need to replace the clutch that will turn to mash after I drive out of the tuners.

R33 GTR

HKS super Drager exhaust

HKS front pipe

HKS super power flow air filters

Apexi power fc (not tuned yet running very rich and pining very badly above 6000rpm far from ideal!)

13 psi boost

button clutch

huge custom intercooler 600x300x115 (not really needed at this power level)

Done on the worst dragstrip in australia

12.63@110mph

60ft 1.847

Personally, I ran 12.74 on stock turbos at 1 bar, air filters and Apexi GT Spec cat back exhaust and 4" Trust Drag IC. I suspect my slow time was due to running crap tyres and breaking traction all the way through 1st and second with a massive 208 Kw @ the wheels and a 60' of 2.3.

HIRISK, a regular on SAU ran 11.57 on stock GTR turbos earlier last year. Although he had other minor mods, the stock turbos held up fine.

Check out the article at http://www.fullboost.com.au/cars/featureca...tr32_shaun.html

Emre has also run 11 second runs on stock turbos with minor mods.

My 60' time was 1.850

Launched at 6500 rpm (standard clutch at the time, boy did it cop a beating that night, twin plate went in the following week coz of excessive slippage)

Running on 265/35/18 Bridgestone G'Grids

215 rwkws

Getting into 11's is not very hard and costly with GTR's... You need about 250kw at the wheels and 115mph.

I got 250kw with exhaust, cam gears and boost, everything else was stock.

Launches are very important but not tyre dependant to a great degree. I managed 1.77 and 1.73 sec. 60 foot times with Ziex's and 1.72 with Bridgestone 540's.

Theoretically yes, definitely.

You need to get the 1.7sec 60 foot and 115mph to do it in a GTR, with the same power but less weight GTS-T you should get more mph and be able to do it with a 1.8 60 footer. The trick is to nail that 60 foot and follow it with a very good run. Although i don't flat change you still have to be fairly aggressive with your gear changes. Considering we judge our cars' performance within that 0.1 of a sec. you gotta realize how clean you run has to be. Slow or missed gearchanges, loosing traction into 2nd or 3rd,hitting the rev limiter briefly will all cost you that 0.1 sec. or more that may be all the difference.

For comparison, i also did 12.1 @ 115 mph with 1.89 60 foot and 12.3 @ 115 mph with 2.05 60 foot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...