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Hiya guys,

Can anyone here help me out... looking for a picture of how your blitz boost controller (mine's a dsbc) is hooked up (on the solenoid side of things). I think i've got it sussed, but just want to have a look at someone else's to confirm what goes where.

Thanks heaps in advance.

Howie

hey mate i cant get a very good pic of it too cramped.. but ill post up what i got and i drew a diagram too....

the manual does show a good diagram too... i'd say you should have it set up right its pretty easy.... now just to tune in the boost settings thats the hard part....not really!

post-16065-1166250868.jpg

post-16065-1166250914.jpg

Thanks buddy! :( Can't really tell from here what's what, but i think i'll be able to guess it.

Btw, what have you got your gain/ratios/limiters set at?

Gain should be as high as possible to maximise response, but not so high that it spikes :P

Depending on the version of the dsbc you have you will either have 1 or 4 gain settings.

If you have 1 (original dsbc) then set the gain on your lowest boost setting. Start by setting both gain and duty to 5. Drive it (floor it in 3rd from 2k rpm) and see what boost spikes to. What you are aiming for at this stage is to get the spike up to just below where you want your boost set so adjust gain only. What you should see is boost spike up to say .8 bar and then drop back to .6 (assuming standard actuator). Once you are there adjust the duty up slowly. As you adjust duty the spike may creep a bit higher so you may have to drop the gain fractionally as you increase the duty. What you are doing now is bringing up the set level of boost up from .6 to .8 so you should get boost response that jumps up to .8 and then stays there. Definitely no spike at this stage.

If you have 4 settings then follow the above for each setting. It's easier than it sounds, and once you get the first one set the rest are a walk in the park.

I'm assuming stock turbo so you're aiming around .8-.85 bar? If so then initially set your boost cut at about 1 bar with a reduction of about 5 as you don't really want it intruding on setup unless you get a really nasty spike. Then drop it back to about .9-.95 once you have set everything.

No point having a boost controller if you aren't making it work :)

Hopefully that made some sense to you?

Edited by BHDave

Thanks heaps dave ... that made perfect sense to me. It's an amazing piece of technology isn't it, i read through the manual three or four times now and was surprised at the things this controller can do for you.

I'll have it set up and tuned properly once i've securely installed the solenoid, just waiting on a blitz pod filter so i can make a box up and mount it off the side of that. Will let you guys know how i get on with it.

Cheers

Howie

Okay newbie question... could one of you guys please tell me if this is correct?

I've got a picture showing the stock setup on the 34. Do i need the in and out from the blitz solenoid to go where i've got the green arrows pointing too?

post-950-1166529141.jpg

Thanks !!!

I think you have it right from what i can see. Someone more familiar with r34 plumbing may be of more help.

The pressure signal goes to in (I'm assuming you have pointed to the pressure signal but can see where it connects to the intake piping), and out goes to the actuator (which you definately have right).

You can then remove all the factory boost control hoses and solenoid.

Thank you BHDave.

I've taken a closer image of the first line...

post-950-1166603294.jpg

Does this help confirm that the first line is correct? And do i just block up what isn't used after that?

Much appreciated.

Howie

Edited by Howie

Marked up your picture.

In and out to the dsbc, blank off the other one.

It's a bit of an educated guess but i figure the larger pipe coming off the side of the tee is the boost signal, the other large one definitely goes to the actuator and the small one marked blank is the bleed return line from the factory boost controller. The other small line off the tee should go to the factory solenoid as well and will be redundant once you remove the factory solenoid.

hope that helps.

post-2863-1166607122.jpg

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