Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does any sydney-siders know where I can buy a lock nut for my nismo rims. I lost the dam thing and need to change my pads!!!

thanks in advance,

andrew

If you get stuck, you can belt a similar sized socket on there and undo the lock nuts. But doing this will ruin the socket and more than likely the lock nuts.

By the sounds of it you are screwed anyways, so you might just need to do this and buy a new set of lock nuts.

Go to a mechanic or tyre shop, get them to bang a socket over the locknut and give it some love with a rattle gun. You may have to try a few places. I can recommend Jax tyres in blacktown, one of the guys there got my locknuts off without even damaging the socket. champion.

If you can find someone with the same brand of lock nuts, in most cases they're compatible. I've had a mate lose his RAYS lock nut, and borrowed mine.

Otherwise, hammering a socket onto the lock nut and taking them off is the other option. With no key the lock nuts are useless anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
    • Running rich in conditions where it shouldn't probably won't do great things for catalytic converter lifespan. I would fix that sooner than later.
    • Yes, important point. Watch the Motive videos with Herman thickness testing the bores and deck. You do not want to push the unlucky (thin) block as hard as you can push the average block.
×
×
  • Create New...