Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't think it's as easy as holding it a 4800, they measure when you back off from that so incase it backfires and getting to that RPM, I have done ir before at work for a blue slip and tafe.

They also test starting your car

Cheers

Josh

faaaarken hell. my exhaust is 102dB WTF???

i held 3500, then held 4800, then back down. the highest reading was 102db.

and to make things worse, we couldnt fit the oval resonator on, coz there's not enough room under there.

that would have only brought it down maybe 3dB anyway. but the only option is to put a hotdog resonator which will only reduce it by maybe 1 or 2 dB.

dangnamit :laugh:

the way he measured it was 45degrees left of the tailpipe, about 1metre away. is it possible he was too close? i might go somewhere else and get a reading.

edit:

before my highflow cat, the exhaust didnt seem this loud. i assume the cat has increased flow dramatically, causing increased volume.

i didnt expect it. is this pretty normal of a highflow cat? it's only an xforce 3 inch cat (replaced a standard compliance cat).

Edited by Munkyb0y

I had my exhaust tested a few years back and I'm sure things haven't changed much.

The process back then was:

Place the microphone at 45deg and 0.5m from the end of tailpipe.

Increase revs gradually to 75% of max hp of engine (this turned out to be 4200rpm for a skyline (any model skyline??) as indicated in the EPA manual, I didn't argue for a more accurate figure because more revs = more noise). Increase in revs has to be gradual so the reading does not spike, otherwise they have to start again. Same goes for backing off. They are not measuring dB under acceleration, they are measuring a simulated drive by situation at constant engine revs.

This process was repeated exactly when I fixed the exhaust and was retested.

I'm running a 3" front pipe off the standard dump, 3" high flow CAT, into 3" pipe with a hotdog inline with a small box resonator, and a 6" barrell muffler with a 4" tip. Tested at 89dB.

Without the box resonator I was tested (and fined) at 92dB. A hotdog will only knock off 1-2 dB. NSW EPA regulation is a maximum reading of 90dB.

Z.

I had my exhaust tested a few years back and I'm sure things haven't changed much.

The process back then was:

Place the microphone at 45deg and 0.5m from the end of tailpipe.

Increase revs gradually to 75% of max hp of engine (this turned out to be 4200rpm for a skyline (any model skyline??) as indicated in the EPA manual, I didn't argue for a more accurate figure because more revs = more noise). Increase in revs has to be gradual so the reading does not spike, otherwise they have to start again. Same goes for backing off. They are not measuring dB under acceleration, they are measuring a simulated drive by situation at constant engine revs.

This process was repeated exactly when I fixed the exhaust and was retested.

I'm running a 3" front pipe off the standard dump, 3" high flow CAT, into 3" pipe with a hotdog inline with a small box resonator, and a 6" barrell muffler with a 4" tip. Tested at 89dB.

Without the box resonator I was tested (and fined) at 92dB. A hotdog will only knock off 1-2 dB. NSW EPA regulation is a maximum reading of 90dB.

Z.

i'm running the exact same setup as you, minus the box resonator and hotdog. where the hell did u get the box to fit? if i put it on, it would be hanging way too low, or touching the tailshaft. mine is all mandrel bend, so it kinda takes up alot of room with no harsh bends.

i reckon maybe this guy got the reading wrong, coz the revs didnt increase gradually, i remember punching it a little between 3500 and 4800, coz i was using my left foot, and was only half in the car :laugh:

although it would still be over legal limit, i have no doubt.

The hotdog and the box resonator only have about 3 inches of pipe between them and they fit between the CAT and the bend before the diff. The box is about 25cm x 20cm so is pretty small. All my pipes are mandrell bent and I had it made to sit as close to the body as possible so I have max ground clearance.

If your over 100dB you may need to look at a bigger rear muffler as well.

The Ruling is...

Passenger Vehicles Made:

Before March 1985 96 dB

After March 1985 90 dB

R33 GTST

Engine Test Speed 4800 Rpm

Microphone placement

45 Degrees angle +/- 10 degrees

same hieght as exhaust tip +/- 25mm

distance from outlet 525mm +/- 25mm

This info taken straight from EPA and Testing Procedure Manuals

can post em up if you want...

Cheers

RellikZephyr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...