Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

ill be taking it easy for a bit, while im running the engine in anyways. what steps did you follow to run your engine in cubes?
Quite contentious, can't say whether I'd follow this advice or not, but it's certainly food for thought. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

And on a totally unrelated note here's some pictures...

bowhunt1.jpg

bowhunt2.jpg

bowhunt3.jpg

bowhunt4.jpg

:D

interesting stuff hey. they say if you dont run the engine hard the rings wont bed in properly. i suppose motorcycle engines would have to be similar to the running in of a car engine. coincidentaly the pistons ill be using are CP forged ones, and they make the majority of there parts to suit motorcycles.

Sambo33,

I was conservative and hung off before taking the jump to synthetic.

I used Penrite run-in oil for the first 1500km's, did 3 oil and filter changes.

One after a couple hundred then the other 2 every 600-700 or so.

I then ran Motul Motion 10w30 Mineral oil until the motor clocked up 10,000km's.

Within the 8500km's I did 2 oil changes, each at ~4000-5000km's.

I then went to Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40.

With regards to how the car was driven, I wired open the wastegate so I could get plenty of load on the motor without boost flicking up to 10psi and creating to much load.

The car went on the dyno to check afr's and ignition timing, I rev'd it to 3500rpm and drove with a flat foot everywhere for the first ~1000km's.

After that I began to rev it a little more ~5000rpm.

I only had it tuned and boost hooked back up once i got synthetic and the PFC in to the car which was at 10,000km's.

So it had lots and lots of time for the rings to bed in and properly as I could get a nice amount of load in to her.

Even though I'm running the largest recommended bore to piston clearance for 24+psi and race use it uses zero oil and has no oil in the intake piping.

It did use a little oil and had oil in the intake piping up until around 1,500km's.

It has slight piston slap on cold starts but goes away very quickly. :D

I was told by the engine builder not to jump in to synthetic too quickly as by doing so can only cause harm, not doing so won't cause any harm but only potentially good.

I've bought a few bits in the past week or so, GTR injectors (good for ~270rwkw on std fuel pressure) and a vg30det turbo that I have the exhaust housing machined up to suit a GT30 600hp CHRA and .7 comp cover. :D

I've attached a map trace for those that are fiddlers like myself.

Its also time for another oil change.

I've decided to go with the heavier Castrol 10w60 over the Motul 8100 5w40.

I went a K&N Oil filter over the PureOne this time as i'm tired of skinning my knuckles trying to remove the old sucker. :cheers:

My other half thinks its sad taking pictures of oil ($59.95 @ Autobarn) and a filter ($18.95 @ Sprint Autoparts).

Whats worse is for some reason I get excited when I look at my new oil filter and castrol oil :)

My other half thinks its sad taking pictures of oil ($59.95 @ Autobarn) and a filter ($18.95 @ Sprint Autoparts).  

Whats worse is for some reason I get excited when I look at my new oil filter and castrol oil :wave:

They just don't understand.... Do they! How much better is ya car just after a oil change, which reminds me I'm just about due too!!

Oil change.. :wave:

Feels the same to be honest, it didn't use a drop of oil and there was no nasty's in either the filter or the bottom of the drain pan.

I want to get myself one of those cheap oil cooler and filter relocation kits for $175, then grab myself an elec. oil temp and pressure guage and mount it in the center console where the GTR's have their three guages. So many plans, so little money. :D

where can you get the oil cooler and filter kit for $175 i woudl like to know. cheapest ive seen is $350 complete kit.

Sorry $350. lol

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=81255

I had just finished looking at the IC for $175. :rofl:

Oil change.. :rofl:

Feels the same to be honest.

I want to get myself one of those cheap oil cooler and filter relocation kits for $175, then grab myself an elec. oil temp and pressure guage and mount it in the center console where the GTR's have their three guages. So many plans, so little money. :D

i got a Earl's oil cooler coming on early August which i don't need now... crazy1.gif

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...