Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi peoples,

jus had a quick question and may seem silly but i have a apexi actuator valve controller and tryin to run around 14 psi through it on my R34...

the prob is the reading is in Bar and i dont know how much bar u need for 14 psi.

was wandering if someone can help me out....sorry if this question has been asked before...im still new :santa:

cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148639-boost-anyone/
Share on other sites

14.7 Psi = 1 bar, but if its a stock turbo 12psi is all i'd run for fear of turbine in the cat.

The skyline stock boost gauge is in mm/Hg not bar on the 33 & 32 so I would just check that before winding 10 mm/Hg x100 out of it (just under 20 psi) 760 mm/Hg is 14.7psi

for 12psi = 610 mm/Hg which is 6.1 on the stock 32 & 33 boost gauge.

Edited by Panikin
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148639-boost-anyone/#findComment-2773208
Share on other sites

well its got the BB turbo so 14 psi shgouldnt be too bad...and i was referring to the apexi boost cont reading which is in bar, the stock boost guage is mm/Hg

damn i was runnin like 1.35 bar and was wandering why it was spitting hehehe went good though :santa:

thanks mate

Edited by AARR34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148639-boost-anyone/#findComment-2773242
Share on other sites

well its got the BB turbo so 14 psi shgouldnt be too bad...and i was referring to the apexi boost cont reading which is in bar, the stock boost guage is mm/Hg

damn i was runnin like 1.35 bar and was wandering why it was spitting hehehe went good though :santa:

thanks mate

14 psi isnt alrite mate lol.. your turbo will most likely fail and when it does you can get ceramic dust in the engine and bye bye engine. Its not even in its compressor efficiency range at the level so if you want to risk fcking your turbo + engine then feel free to do so.

Its got nothing to do with the bearing but to do with the heat destorying the ceramic wheel sending it straight of the shaft. Do your self a favour and do some research before you do anything else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148639-boost-anyone/#findComment-2773326
Share on other sites

oook

so how much bar should i run if its a BB stock turbo? it handles 1.1 Bar pretty comfortably but i dont know a lot bout the neo 6 motors and dont wanna screw the motor

i thought 12 psi is pretty comfortable for most turbos and 14 isnt a hell lot more

and arent the R34 turbos stronger and more tolerant?

cheers

Edited by AARR34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148639-boost-anyone/#findComment-2773507
Share on other sites

They are no more tolerant that any other ceramic turbo

10-12psi max or you run the risk.

Some people run more and have been lucky, some have run more and been extremely unlucky

So depends if your a gambling man or not.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148639-boost-anyone/#findComment-2774185
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...