Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi peoples,

jus had a quick question and may seem silly but i have a apexi actuator valve controller and tryin to run around 14 psi through it on my R34...

the prob is the reading is in Bar and i dont know how much bar u need for 14 psi.

was wandering if someone can help me out....sorry if this question has been asked before...im still new :santa:

cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148639-boost-anyone/
Share on other sites

14.7 Psi = 1 bar, but if its a stock turbo 12psi is all i'd run for fear of turbine in the cat.

The skyline stock boost gauge is in mm/Hg not bar on the 33 & 32 so I would just check that before winding 10 mm/Hg x100 out of it (just under 20 psi) 760 mm/Hg is 14.7psi

for 12psi = 610 mm/Hg which is 6.1 on the stock 32 & 33 boost gauge.

Edited by Panikin
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148639-boost-anyone/#findComment-2773208
Share on other sites

well its got the BB turbo so 14 psi shgouldnt be too bad...and i was referring to the apexi boost cont reading which is in bar, the stock boost guage is mm/Hg

damn i was runnin like 1.35 bar and was wandering why it was spitting hehehe went good though :santa:

thanks mate

Edited by AARR34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148639-boost-anyone/#findComment-2773242
Share on other sites

well its got the BB turbo so 14 psi shgouldnt be too bad...and i was referring to the apexi boost cont reading which is in bar, the stock boost guage is mm/Hg

damn i was runnin like 1.35 bar and was wandering why it was spitting hehehe went good though :santa:

thanks mate

14 psi isnt alrite mate lol.. your turbo will most likely fail and when it does you can get ceramic dust in the engine and bye bye engine. Its not even in its compressor efficiency range at the level so if you want to risk fcking your turbo + engine then feel free to do so.

Its got nothing to do with the bearing but to do with the heat destorying the ceramic wheel sending it straight of the shaft. Do your self a favour and do some research before you do anything else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148639-boost-anyone/#findComment-2773326
Share on other sites

oook

so how much bar should i run if its a BB stock turbo? it handles 1.1 Bar pretty comfortably but i dont know a lot bout the neo 6 motors and dont wanna screw the motor

i thought 12 psi is pretty comfortable for most turbos and 14 isnt a hell lot more

and arent the R34 turbos stronger and more tolerant?

cheers

Edited by AARR34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148639-boost-anyone/#findComment-2773507
Share on other sites

They are no more tolerant that any other ceramic turbo

10-12psi max or you run the risk.

Some people run more and have been lucky, some have run more and been extremely unlucky

So depends if your a gambling man or not.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148639-boost-anyone/#findComment-2774185
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...