Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Wondering if anyone has any ideas on this problem.

A couple of days ago i started my Series 1 R33 GTST and it sounded like it was running on 5 cylinders, I thought i had dropped a plug or coil. I pulled off the cover over the coil packs restarted the car and disconnected each coil pack to find the guilty party. I found number 4 was making no difference to the idle so thought i had located the criminal. I proceeded to swap out number 2 plug and coil to see if the problem then moved to number 2. alas problem stayed at number 4, I then swapped both number 1 plug and coil into number 4 and still the same problem, so I am convinced it is not a coil or plug issue.

I then drove the car cautiously as it vibrates at about 2000 revs and i went for 15 kilometres came out of shop and started the car and hey presto no chaff cutter, I drove it the 15 ks home no dramas all normal.

The next morning i satrted it and it dropped a cylinder again, drove it the 15 ks again restarted same problem went another 2 ks restarted and all was good again.

went to my sisters for xmas stayed 3 hours jumped back in car started no dramas drove all the way home with no problems.

Any Ideas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148841-help-please/
Share on other sites

it could be moisture in the wiring harness plug, or a short in the wiring harness, or the ignitor.

Thanks mate,

All was dry doesnt explain why even with 2 different plugs and coils it still goes back to number 4

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148841-help-please/#findComment-2775978
Share on other sites

the times i have seen this before have had the following solutions- on my mates 180sx the plug on the injector for number 1 was faulty. on my mates r33 his ecu was fried (had a hole melted in it), but it kept frying number 6 coil.

if it was a sticking valve i think it would me a bit less intermittent. and it seems that when your car is warm it goes away.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148841-help-please/#findComment-2776141
Share on other sites

the times i have seen this before have had the following solutions- on my mates 180sx the plug on the injector for number 1 was faulty. on my mates r33 his ecu was fried (had a hole melted in it), but it kept frying number 6 coil.

if it was a sticking valve i think it would me a bit less intermittent. and it seems that when your car is warm it goes away.

thanks for the ideas mate will have a look, by the way i ran a diagnostics on the ecu and got 55 all ok

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148841-help-please/#findComment-2776467
Share on other sites

Hmmm could be injector related... id run a decent injector cleaner with a good batch of Shell V-Racing and down shift to 2nd while doing 60km/h going down a steep hill and let it roll while revs are up... that will open up ur injectors and clean out most crap... cause injector issues usually happen when they cold and sort them selfs out as the car warms up... happened exactly same to my SSS

Let us know how you go... Good luck

Regards,

Sarkis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148841-help-please/#findComment-2776528
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
    • As above, replace as many as you can afford. If anything, due to old age.
×
×
  • Create New...