Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dan,

I Cycle every weekend at the moment, Well since getting home anyway, Now living in Innaloo, So I will be riding up and down the coast from now on, But I am sure we could meet up some time

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148863-cycling/#findComment-2776224
Share on other sites

i used to ride competive about 3yres for a good 7yrs,it is a great way of getting fit and it is so relaxing when just going for a roll along the road...

i wish i still did but 550-700km a week is to hard with my job and thats a minimum amount of kays a week to be real competive...

enjoy ya bike dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148863-cycling/#findComment-2776892
Share on other sites

Yeah i just started cycling, i always wanted to get into it but never really had the full motivation to go buy a bike. Till i lost my licence for speeding. Now i ride everywhere, to and from work, girlfriends, mates places and lovin it. Getting super fit now, droped a few kg's. Losing the licence was almost a blessing in disguise........sorta. I STILL MISS MY CAR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148863-cycling/#findComment-2777190
Share on other sites

So how long did it take?

I'm considering buying a bike and riding to work too. It's rediculous man, I live about 5 minutes drive from work, I could walk it if I could be bothered. It would probably be much better for me and much better for the ride (cutting out the short trips). And also much better for petrol. Right now I'm spending around $50 a week just going to and from work, it's all that stop-start crap down Beaufort street.

Hey also, reading the membership benefits page. The Dan you're supposed to ask for at Zest in Bibra Lake.. is that you Dan the Man? Reason I ask is, I've been going there for the past 4 years til I moved up here and now I'm going to the Mt Lawley one. I have to say, although the Mt Lawley one is bigger, the Bibra Lake one is much cleaner and better maintained. Wish I could still go there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148863-cycling/#findComment-2778633
Share on other sites

So how long did it take?

I'm considering buying a bike and riding to work too. It's rediculous man, I live about 5 minutes drive from work, I could walk it if I could be bothered. It would probably be much better for me and much better for the ride (cutting out the short trips). And also much better for petrol. Right now I'm spending around $50 a week just going to and from work, it's all that stop-start crap down Beaufort street.

Hey also, reading the membership benefits page. The Dan you're supposed to ask for at Zest in Bibra Lake.. is that you Dan the Man? Reason I ask is, I've been going there for the past 4 years til I moved up here and now I'm going to the Mt Lawley one. I have to say, although the Mt Lawley one is bigger, the Bibra Lake one is much cleaner and better maintained. Wish I could still go there.

you can go to any zest. you just need to sign up membership at mt lawley. then you can go anywhere. The original guy who we had the agreement with has since left zest. but another dan who works at mount lawley has agreed to carry on the deal. I spoke to him before xmas about it but he was away so i couldnt finalise it. I shall do it next week when I am back there and hopefully he is :yes:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148863-cycling/#findComment-2778647
Share on other sites

I ride to work with a group of us a couple of days a week, the rest of the time we're car pooling, so most of my fuel generally gets used on weekends.

A race bike would be real good, I was riding my crappy MTB the first few days to work (18ish ks), then I got a flat bar road bike, there is such a massive difference, was struggling before and suddenly it became so much easier :( ...it doesn't do awesome skids tho.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148863-cycling/#findComment-2782186
Share on other sites

i used to ride a lot when i was younger - thats how i got to school, after 12 years of riding a bike to and from school everyday (well, almost) and riding every where else all the time i ended up with huge muscles in my calves, with awesome definition

i still occasionly ride, and can still go a long distance b4 i tire, and can keep a pretty good pace too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148863-cycling/#findComment-2786151
Share on other sites

I used to ride everywhere on my Haro BMX until I feel off while bouncing my front wheel and started boucing sideways..... ow! Then I hit a power pole at 40k's on a mountain bike, that was very ow! :laugh:. The pole was smack in the middle of the path for some f**ked reason.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148863-cycling/#findComment-2786482
Share on other sites

I hit a power pole at 40k's on a mountain bike, that was very ow! :D. The pole was smack in the middle of the path for some f**ked reason.

I feel your pain - I did the same thing on the kenwick link a couple of years ago, but it was a chevron sign (the black and white arrows at the end of a t-juction) that was in the middle of the cycle path. It was the one on the north side at the end of Beckenham St and it still has the bent leg if anyone wants to see.

I got all angry about it and sent a photo of my destroyed bike and my injuries to the main roads dept, telling them that if they moved the sign and paid for my bike repairs (quote attached) I would not sue them, and 3 weeks later I had a cheque in the mail!.

Dan - if you want some company on your bridges ride, you should suggest a day and time and a meet point and I'll be there - riding with other people allways makes it a lot more enjoyable - not to mention the ability to draft!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148863-cycling/#findComment-2786820
Share on other sites

I got all angry about it and sent a photo of my destroyed bike and my injuries to the main roads dept, telling them that if they moved the sign and paid for my bike repairs (quote attached) I would not sue them, and 3 weeks later I had a cheque in the mail!.

I could have done the same because of my injuries and munted bike as well, but I was like 15 and oblivious at the time ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/148863-cycling/#findComment-2787370
Share on other sites




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...