Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im interested Upgrading my stock exhaust system, i have a stock r34 gtt auto coupe. I was wondering if i bought the front/dump + the high flow cat and leaving the stock cat back be, power wise compared to just doing the cat back.

id just like to know wat power gains id be looking at if i do this combo system or whether going with the cat back is better bang for buck.

I was maybe thinking of keeping the std muffler look on it if the front pipe/dump/split + cat make more of a difference than the alone cat back. I know the cat back will give me more sound but i only am looking for that slightly deeper sound when she goes. >_<

im probably not into doing the whole system from the turbo back so id like to know which setup will be more gains verses costs.

Any info or ideas will be great!

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149057-which-exhaust-setup-to-go-with-r34/
Share on other sites

i myself just got a cat back exhaust in my r34gtt and feel a difference in power..... like alot of ppl in here id say do the whole thing.... the rear muffler is quite restrictive.... power from cat back is said to be 10 rwkw or so...... i think theres more gain from doin the front dump and cat but u need the cat back to get the most out of it....

1) Turbo Back system... Apexi N1? Little over $1k I think

2) Go back to your importer/dealer - trade them your stock exhaust + cash for a better exhaust system :laugh:

My cat-back Trust PEII only cost me $300 from memory >_<

thanks for the replies guys,

hmm those prices sound pretty good compared to what i got quoted at bel garage, for the cat back hks silent hi power i got quoted $1K included fitting. The Reason why i wanted that system is because he said it has some built in silencer that doesnt make it sound too droney and mine being an auto i wouldnt want it to be that constatnt loud humm.

shudnt be too bad if i can find a good turbo back system @ $1K that makes good power and isnt too loud, just so i can still hear the turbo hehe >_< any ideas? What do most of you guys run?

Stan you guys can fitt them at your place too?

cheers.

i have a Hcr32

rb20det

i had a front dump pipe first and it made a world of difference to the way it spooled up, made it a lot better to drive day to day, but at the top end lost its pull

now i have a cat back wit standard cat (soon to be hi flow) and that made all the difference up in the rev range, it wasnt gettin choked up,

this is all in the last 3 weeks so the feeling is still fresh for me,

i liked the idea of having somethin so quiet, so find ur self a system wit silencers that made a bigg difference

the cat and catback/muffler are the 2 most restictive bits , do not underestimate how much your shitty compliance cat sucks power if you still have it

the dump/front is actually not bad for a stockie , you will get very minimal power gains changing it while still having a very restrictive cat sitting at the end of them

i got a trust pe II for my old r34 sedan from autobarn on special about 800$ delivered , you can fit yourself easy

Sorry to hi-jack...

But since we're on the topic of exhaust systems & this thread is still active I thought I might try my luck here...

Does anybody here have the 'nissan sports muffler' with silencer? There's an in-cabin switch that says 'sport & silent'

I'm planning on my exhaust now & I was wondering if anyone knows whether it's worthwhile to change it or if there's any need. At the moment I am planning on a high flow cat, split dump pipe & 3" piping.

I want to keep the sports muffler for the fact that it has a silencer & if I remove it then the in-cabin switch will be useless.

Any info is appreciated :cool:

Hey yo-yo. Yep i've got the nismo muffler with the silencer as well. Mine's seized onto wide open (thankfully).

It's restrictive but not as bad as you would imagine. I did the front/split pipe and left the original nismo cat-back and there was still quite a bit of flow, with a bit more of a gruntier note to it. The stock front pipe is where it gets really choked up. Anyhow, i'm going to a Trust PEII shortly.

Btw, leave the wiring for the silencer there, and perhaps you can use it with something like an apexi control valve later on.

Edited by Howie

Ok people,

Im deciding to either go with the trust pe2 or the hks silent hi power cat back systems. What can you guys recommend for a non droney, nice sounding, value for money system? which one would you choose? :laugh:

Ok people,

Im deciding to either go with the trust pe2 or the hks silent hi power cat back systems. What can you guys recommend for a non droney, nice sounding, value for money system? which one would you choose? :laugh:

Hi there,

I've just ordered the hks hi power silent for my r33 gtst - will be about 6 weeks until we'll fit - I'm hoping it'll be less droney than the existing one.

Cheers

Hey yo-yo. Yep i've got the nismo muffler with the silencer as well. Mine's seized onto wide open (thankfully).

It's restrictive but not as bad as you would imagine. I did the front/split pipe and left the original nismo cat-back and there was still quite a bit of flow, with a bit more of a gruntier note to it. The stock front pipe is where it gets really choked up. Anyhow, i'm going to a Trust PEII shortly.

Btw, leave the wiring for the silencer there, and perhaps you can use it with something like an apexi control valve later on.

Thanks Howie, you're a legend.

Just to confirm we have the same type of cat-back, It has a silencer where the in-cabin switch says 'sport' & 'silent.' On the side of the tip it has a plate that says nissan 'sports muffler' in running writing font, you called yours a nismo cat-back?

Did your silencer seize after you changed the dump pipe or before? If the increased flow caused the silencer motor to stuff up I might as well get a full exhaust anyway but I'm on a budget so I'd prefer to keep the sports cat-back if it's decent.

Cheers again mate :P

Just to confirm we have the same type of cat-back, It has a silencer where the in-cabin switch says 'sport' & 'silent.' On the side of the tip it has a plate that says nissan 'sports muffler' in running writing font, you called yours a nismo cat-back?

Yep mine's exactly the same one bud.

Did your silencer seize after you changed the dump pipe or before? If the increased flow caused the silencer motor to stuff up I might as well get a full exhaust anyway but I'm on a budget so I'd prefer to keep the sports cat-back if it's decent.

No that was always like that. I understand it's a common problem with the r34 nismo exhaust, to rectify you just spray wd40 and bang at it with a rubber hammer - i did that and it fixed it up for a while.

Cheers again mate :P

No worries at all buddy.

I also went CES dump/front with metalcat cat and apexi n1 muffler with 3" piping in between, in my opinion it is a reasonably quite system, only becomes loud when you really give it some. The gains were incredible though. Spool up quicker, better top end everything improved.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To plug the hole. The engine plant may not have known whether the car it was going into had a gauge or not. It was a long time ago and the integrations might not have been fully modern. Or they might not have cared because the extra inventory and processes to save a few cents on the sender might have cost more anyway. But please tell me you are not still confusing the idea of a pressure gauge sender, and an oil pressure light switch. The switch will be out there. In a separate hole. Probably with only one wire running to it. Running the light.
    • Blower needs to go low on the exhaust side, displacing the AC and PS, which you have to decide whether you want to keep and how and where to relocate if you do. Electric option for PS is, at least, helpful. Sadly, there is no workable 12V electric AC of any value. Whilst the blower is the last compression step before the throttle, and so it might seem a good idea to have it near the inlet manifold (as mentioned above), you probably want it to go through an intercooler first, so, having it on the opposite side of the car facilitates that air flow path. The turbo discharges into the blower, so proximity of the turbo's compressor outlet to the blower's inlet is nice. But then you might want to intercool that too, before boosting it again....which would probably be a ball ache. Routing pipes out to the front and back could be a bit shit. If there was room for (at least) a small (but preferably larger) water to air core on that side, then that would probably be the best approach. I guess a reasonable alternative would be to locate the blower where the alternator is (more or less, associated with the inlet manifold, per Matt's thought), and somehow incorporate a water to air core into the manifold, sort of like they do for modern blown V8s. The big difference here though is that those V8s have only the one throttle (upstream the blower) and only the one compression step (the blower) and no need for too much in the way of bypass/blowoff valves. Whereas in a twin charged 6, you do need to think about one or two bypass valves associated with the 2 compressors and you would prefer to have the intercooling done before the air has to pass through the throttle. You'd like the throttle to work approx the same no matter what the compression is doing. But if it is located in hot air stream before a cooler, then sometimes the air will be real hot, sometimes it will be quite cool, and the throttle mapping/response will be quite different between those two cases. The throttle, if sized for hot air, would be too large for cold conditions. It's all a ball ache.
    • Package SC on exhaust side. Remote mount turbo. Still a fair bit of room when you get creative on the inlet side of the motor too. Especially if you can get really creative with the welding, and effectively build it into the bottom of the inlet manifold. Would definitely take some design work, and some trial and error, to make sure flow works well still! Might be easier to just start with the Nissan March though... All the work is already done for you...
    • I'll sit down and get a post together 😁
    • The factory oil pressure sender is no longer in the car that's what is confusing me. In the Taarks adapter I have an aftermarket Bosch style pressure/temp sender and the factory temp sender only. Oil pressure is perfect. Where does the factory oil temp sender go to if there were never any gauges? Why was it there from the factory?
×
×
  • Create New...