Jump to content
SAU Community

Wassup guys...New Here!!


Recommended Posts

Guest GME_OVR

Wassup Guys/Gals!!

This is my first post and am kind of new to the Skyline World. We don't get to see them much here (US), so bare with my ignorance on certain matters. But my GF lives in NSW now and she drove a friend's Skyline and she is hooked. She wants one pretty bad, so I had a few Questions,

1) How much would a R33 GTR V-Spec/ R34 GTR V-SPEC cost in Australia (Brisbane area). Also how hard are they to acquire down there?

2) Performance wise which the better bang for the buck in between R33 GTR and R34 GTR

3) Also if someone can direct me towards a site which has different models specs (like gts, gtst, gtt's, gtr's) I just want to know what's the difference.

4) Last Question for , Is there any place in Brisbane where they sell imports (skylines, supras). Or any place that we should AVOID not getting a car from.

Thanks for all the help in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1491-wassup-guysnew-here/
Share on other sites

Hey mate,

nice seeing more people joining this forum/club hope this place will help you out.

The best place to find a nice car in qld would be a guy name PRIMO he's in queensland & will give u a good deal on the car

Queenland is like the best place 2 pick up a Skylines, more likely the cheapest place in Australia to buy one after importing one yourself.

Im a bit bais over R32 to R33's, i love the R32 over the r33, its all on personal taste.

The R34 is better performace wise over the r33 i beleive, i cant see a big difference but then again i could be totally wrong.

Give primo a msg, as i said he will give u a good deal

Im not a parter of primo nor have I never seen, brought anything from primo before but he always has nice skylines posted on this forum in the forsale business section so give him a holla :P

Thanks,

Joe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1491-wassup-guysnew-here/#findComment-29334
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...