Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i am just wondering do you have the same problem as mine. My idling was a bit unsual when I started the engine this morning. it goes up and down up and down and stalled for three times, and I have finally started the engine at the fourth time. I was told by a mechanic that most stageas have this problem, but not on skylines. I just want to make sure if this is true or not, as it does not seem alright to me, and it makes some funny sound at the same time that I started the engine. I have put $10 worth of 95 petrol from BP, is that the problem? Mine is S1 97 stagea.

one more thing, what is your average km you can run by a full tank of Shell V-Power?

my one does 330km by $65, is that normal or worse than yours?

Thanks for your time, your answers and and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jason

Mine does the same, but only when cold, idles between 1200 and 500 rpm, goes up and down, but never stalls, and usually after about 30secs it sorts itself out and everything is fine, I just thought it was a bad tune on the "cold" setting on the power-fc?

Also for avg fuel economy do a search for the "How much Petrol does your stagea use" thread. It really all depends on how much throttle you use, I can squeeze ~600kms out of a tank if I am careful, then again with a heavy use of the throttle i have gone as low as 250-300kms out of a tank, all depends on how I drive.

I highly doubt that just using 95 ron fuel would make a difference with idling, maybe make it ping a lot more underload, but not idling.......?

I don't use anything but 98.. and my idling is up and down but nothing to worry about..

On a big stretch i got 550 out of her with a bit more to go, so prolly just under 600... around town I'm averaging 350-400. She needs a tune.

Mine surged like you are describing when I first test drove it due to a partially flat battery - as soon as I got a decent drive out of it the problem disappeared like magic and it has been fine since...

Bad engine earth maybe?

one of my caqr did that years ago. I think from memory is the vaccum pump that holds the rpm and the constant rpm set. Just check with your mech im sure is only a minor thingy. dont worry too much about it

I'm almost certain the idling problem, is caused by the idle control valve, at the back of the plenum. Mine had the same problem when i first bought the car. I pulled it off and cleaned the carbon out of it, and that seemed to fix the problem.

There is a thread on here from way back, which explains how to do this, don't ask me where though.

Do a search on the following.

1. DIY AAC cleaning

2. DIY coilpacks

3. changing Oxygen sensor

It should be one of these causing the erratic idle

That or if ur using an atmo venting BOV ..if not then check for vacumm leaks too.

If ur using an atmo BOV...then the unstable idle is normal...u might want to use a safc to correct this ..or a cheaper option is using the HKS EIDS (i've got one in the for sale forums -- free ad :) )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...