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Erik, if you are going to modify stuff [ie airfilter] do the dyno FIRST!

Its better to test as-is.

GTS-t VSPEC: no probs mate. So what measurment is used for the 33? I never had a close look when testing them - too busy keeping it str8 :) [with dealer sitting next to me].

Useless fact #101: The "0" reading on the 34 guage [see pic above] is neither boost nor vacuum - which sits at halfway point between -700 mmhg [vacuum] and +1 kg/cm2 [boost].

Erik you must be hitting the 1/2 mark between 0 and +1, one post you said 3/4 another post u said 1/2 - so which is it?

Just trying to work out if your boost is in the normal range or not!

Originally posted by eriktufa

sorry nismo 1/2 from 0 to 1, 3/4 the whole boost gauge, i think i'm getting a new one. Dang , i put air filter already today with nice sound, cheap one 35 bucks hehee it's nice sound

ok, that is definately in the normal range for a stock 34! Mine used to be like that too :)

Maybe you should organise a dyno run dude, get them to check your CAS [crank angle sensor] timing and listen for detonation while your there. If it doesnt pull around 150+ kilowatts then there may be something wrong. Mine with some minor mods recorded 182kw.

Also what type of fuel do you use? If you put normal unleaded [89-93 ron] or even so-called 'premium' unleaded [93-95 ron] in your car this could cause problems like timing retardation or detonation. You definately need to get the car looked at if its not running like it should ~ which is ~ fast!

I only use BP Ultimate - 98+ octane.

expensive? In Vic its usually cheaper for me than Optimax.

I have heard its made here though so you guys would pay more in transport costs - but at least you can get Ultimate / 98 octane fuel, not everyone can get it Aust wide.

Prices are normally:

Ultimate - maximum of 6.5cpl dearer than unleaded

Optimax - maximum of 8.5cpl dearer than unleaded

Both s/stations are usually the same advertised price so Ultimate is normally around 2cpl cheaper!

Just my 2c worth :P

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