Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

who says you cant drive it with no front panels? Just know for r34 users .. No front panels = no blinkers :S

Neways ..

Yes sand it back to remove all imperfections from the paint make sure you finish with the 2000 super smooth .. lucky you didnt use thinner you would have been in alot of trouble haha.

when its smooth you can either primer it .. i would prob do this just to make sure .. One light coat should be fine, Make sure u sand it back again 2000 grit .. just light sand heavy sand will obviously take it all off .. But the primer also works to remove the imperfections you missed...

as for the crack .. id say best option is to flip it over, use fibre glass along the back to add regidity to the face.. but here comes the hard work .. you going to need body filler.. smear it on let it dry .. sand back. you can use fibre glass filler if you want but its extremely hard to use and hard to stick to plastic!

A simple fix is a soldering iron heating the two plastics together .. do the back first and for the front push the plastic in to make a crevis .. then apply body filler, dry, sand, spray putty, dry, sand, re-apply, dry, sand, primer, paint .. check if its good enough ... if not repeat!

Best of luck dude

  • Replies 98
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

thanks for all the tips you wonderful people. i am through 2 coats of paint at the moment and its turning out gorgeous.. and to think people pay 100 bucks on those plastic dash trims when you can get this done for $35! simply brilliant .thanks to the topic starter and to all those who shared knowledge. Cheers

Finally finished painting mine after endless problems... Sanded back on a windy day so was getting the powder in my eyes. Primed and sprayed just drying over night waiting for gloss coat, apparantly it was very windy as there was a fine coat of bugs and dirt so i sanded it all back and started again. Turned out great though, matches my exterior paint perfectly.

dash1nv3.jpg

just waiting on my gear and handbrake gaiters and its all set(mr gaiter on ebay, make sure to check him out, $70 gets you a custom colour design gear and handbrake gaiter set made specifically for an R33)

Edited by Baconer
300km/h :P

Go to the group buys section, Amec is selling R33 white face gauges for 100 a set

yea ive already got el dials on ... but just 180k ones.. urs looked like it goes upto 300... or is it just not been recalibrated?

yea ive already got el dials on ... but just 180k ones.. urs looked like it goes upto 300... or is it just not been recalibrated?

Because it does go up to 300k :(

Has been calibrated but stock computer so doesn't go above 180

any1 got a pic of what the blue LED 300km dials look like?

Its one of those have to see in person things, i have blue LEDs behind the whiteface gauges but the pictures dont do it any justice. It looks bloody great though :D

Did mine the other day using Tamiya model spray paint. It is designed for use on plastic so no priming etc.

I just removed the coat of rubber from the dash (what a pain!!!), cleaned it with wax and grease remover and gave it 3 or 4 light coats.

For those interested, the code for the Tamiya paint is TS-40 (metallic black). It has a very subtle metalic fleck and cost $12.99 per 100ml can. I used 3 cans in total. Very happy with the results, as I was after a stock kind of look.

post-8870-1175556326.jpg

post-8870-1175556337.jpg

Model paint is actually lexan paint dude .. If you applied a primer it wont stick .. if you didnt it will never come off as it fuses with lexan .. However with plastic im not sure .. Best thing about lexan/model paint is it is heat proof up to about 300 degrees

No, I didn't use a primer. It sprays on beautifully in really nice thin, even coats and isn't too glossy like normal spray paint. I love it. I also did my interior rear vision mirror. That terrible grey colour was pissing me off. Having a black car it stuck out like dogs balls every time I looked at the car from the front.

hey guys im a brand new skyline owner.

was lookin through this thread, some awesome results here and seeing as how my interior is a bit rough i just have to do this too.

ive got a bit of a noob question though... how do i remove the dash panels? i dont wanna break anything so i thought i'd ask first.

I'm thinking a dark silver might go well with a black skyline. What do you think?

thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
    • That's incorrect. We have 4 seasons, consisting of pre winter, winter, post winter and a small glimpse of hope! 
    • I spotted a black C34 in Mittagong this morning!
×
×
  • Create New...