Battery Terminals

[J_Red33]

Just an update, I've re-routed my speaker & RCA leads now. It's not perfect but I'd say it's a good 90-95% better, can hear it a bit still when the alternator is loaded up (ie just started the car, headlights on etc). I've also noted that my RCA's are a tad loose on the earth sheild so I need to tighten them up (ie squeeze the contacts in a bit, they're toothed). Wiring also needs a bit more of a tidy up in the boot too.

As far as the speaker wire goes I've still got 1 pair running next to the RCA's (didn't really want to go out & buy new cable to do it the other way) but I don't think it's making a lot of difference, will have a bit of a play around to see what I can do to improve it further when I get time. Technically if the Speaker output is on a properly regulated circuit (ie the amps internal regulated supply), it shouldn't be carrying the engine interferance anyway.

I am actually starting to think the sheilding on the RCA's it just simply inadequate (they are Cadence leads, for those out there wondering & so is the amp).

Sound quality is much better now too due to the thicker leads running to the front now & a bit of amp tuning has gone a long way to helping as well.

Edited February 14, 2007 by JazzaR33

[dangtstr32]

Hi mate

ive experienced in an r33 that the ground cable has made a difference to engine noise going through the speakers, we fixed this by moving the ground cable away from the relay box and cable tied it in near the roof part of the boot, worth a try good luck.

[trism]

im sorry if i missed it, but did anyone mention that you should probably check your amps grounds??

[MANWHORE]

I would honestly be suprised if you actually have a problemw ith the stock battery terminal clamps.

Even though you might have modified them.

e.g. in my car, i've fitted a sealed lead acid battery. It doesnt' even have posts on the battery. What I did was turn the terminal sideways and put a bolt through the side of it. That's perfect.

Since my car has always ran a sealed battery, i haven't had problems with corroded terminals.

The terminals themselves are fine, corrosion is not.

Whenever peopel see gains replacing terminals, it's usually because they have an under the bonnet battery that isn't sealed and has splashed acid all over the terminals and it has rusted out and not conducting electricity very well.

[J_Red33]

I would honestly be suprised if you actually have a problemw ith the stock battery terminal clamps.

Even though you might have modified them.

e.g. in my car, i've fitted a sealed lead acid battery. It doesnt' even have posts on the battery. What I did was turn the terminal sideways and put a bolt through the side of it. That's perfect.

Since my car has always ran a sealed battery, i haven't had problems with corroded terminals.

The terminals themselves are fine, corrosion is not.

Whenever peopel see gains replacing terminals, it's usually because they have an under the bonnet battery that isn't sealed and has splashed acid all over the terminals and it has rusted out and not conducting electricity very well.

Yeah admittedly I don't have a sealed battery, but I was experiencing the same issues with the previous battery that was sealed.

As for the terminals, corrosion wasn't an issue, but they were nice & hacked & needed replacing anyway, so thought I'd give it a shot.

As for the solution, there is now 5 things I can see possibly causing the problem:

1. Bad RCA leads (I do know of some1 that changed them & it fixed their problems)

2. RCA leads too close too speaker wiring (I personally find this 1 highly unlikely)

3. Power source to the head unit.

4. A need for a power capacitor for the Amp (400W RMS 4 channel Amp)

5. A need to neaten up the wiring to the Amp

Thanks for the contributions guys

Edited February 25, 2007 by JazzaR33

[MANWHORE]

Check one more thing for me. I have found this to be the cause a lot of the time.

If you haven't already, i'm sure you know, but rcas on different side to power wire. You should know that already.

One that is always overlooked is the headunit ground. The loom doesn't actually have a ground in it, so it's normally grounded onto the headunit bracket. Check that it's a good ground.

[Fry_33]

As for the solution, there is now 5 things I can see possibly causing the problem:

1. Bad RCA leads (I do know of some1 that changed them & it fixed their problems)I think I have some Audioline RCA's (probably made quite a few car audio enthusiasts cringe)

One thing to note though is they have an Amp trigger wire attached to them and I did not use them.

2. RCA leads too close too speaker wiring (I personally find this 1 highly unlikely)

I would remove any unnecessary wires from near it. The small amount of noise you're experiencing my be caused by your speaker wire.

3. Power source to the head unit.

I don't think this would be it but you can always try. I would say it would be more to do with the RCA's as they the weakest signal which would be the most influenced buy interference.

4. A need for a power capacitor for the Amp (400W RMS 4 channel Amp)

I thought capacitors were only needed for very high end systems, again I could be wrong

5. A need to neaten up the wiring to the Amp

I have taken power from the +ve terminal and then earthed the amp to the same chassis ground the battery uses. My RCA's run under the battery and down the passenger side. I was a little worried that it might pick up interference from the ECU wiring but it seems fine. There is some wiring on the drivers side beside the seat aswell and some of the wires seemed a bit thicker than the ones near the ECU so I figured they would affect the RCA's more.

My Amp trigger wire and the speaker wires run together down the drivers side.

Edited February 25, 2007 by Fry_33