Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well.. i get up to Townsville, and a Guy offers me a muffler for free, and another guy wants to palm me off his FMIC for $150, and another guy is selling his highflowed GT3540 or something for $600... so i have hit upon the dilemma... What priorities should i place on modifications to the stagea...

All i wanted to do to start off with was get some better sound quality and bass in there and fit a turbo timer...

then suspension, seats, exhaust, FMIC and mangament...

But what are your experiences and priorities (in hindsight or presently)? Please only post your priority opinions..not huge extensive mod lists.. there are other threads for that, but decifering the order the occured in is a pain in the arse.

Thanks in Advance

Edited by captinsane
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149654-i-need-opinions/
Share on other sites

Depends on what you are looking for I suppose....

To me the first mod should be a full turbo back exhaust with high flow cat... I reckon thats your best bang for buck upgrade... and if I ever have spare money its what I would do first to my car :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149654-i-need-opinions/#findComment-2790013
Share on other sites

Ahoy Capt

Sounds like you are on the right track. Be true to your original plan. It all depends on what you want to do with your Stag. As for management, I'm assuming your talking engine management. Alot of ppl use the forum use the Apexi power FC, me included, and it should be one of the first if not the first mechanical mod you get. It will give your tuner the ability to extract more HP reliably from your ride.

get a plan, a budget, search these forums for info then search for parts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149654-i-need-opinions/#findComment-2790037
Share on other sites

IMHO there are a couple of things that should be prioritised if you want to enhance the performance of the Stagea and build a base for any future mods. They are very simply:

Exhaust

Intake

Engine Management

The RB engines respond especially well to fitting a decent sized exhaust. On the Series 2, its 2.5" standard. I opted for a good 3" system with a split dump pipe and high flow cat. The engine revs smoother, and will maximise the addition of other mods.

The intake can be relatively cheaply improved too, with either a high flow filter (K&N etc) to fit the existing airbox, or a pod filter setup. These should assist with throttle response & economy.

Engine Management is another source of relatively easy to access power improvement. A piggy back system (like a Jaycar Independent Electronic Boost Controller - IEBC) can help you bring on boost earlier, resulting in more torque earlier in the rev range. Of course, this should be coupled with a Digital Fuel adjuster to ensure that the fuel/air ratios are optimal through the rev range.

Following (or before) that, consider a larger intercooler (FMIC are popular) to keep air cool to the plenum intake and increase horsepower.

The list of mods is really endless, but this should start you in the right direction. Hi Flowing the Turbo has been covered in other forum topics, but is of limited use (can be a bit laggy around town) if you havent at least upgraded your exhaust and intake.

Of course, everyone will have different paths that they have chosen, but this will provide you with a good base if you wish to crank out more power.

Hope that helps. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149654-i-need-opinions/#findComment-2790051
Share on other sites

Yeap, no point in having a big arse turbo with no supporting mods, get a good exhaust and intake and look at all the other things these wise guys have suggested, I mean look at all the mods mine has and I reckon it's about ready for bigger injectors, z32 afm and a big arse turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149654-i-need-opinions/#findComment-2790232
Share on other sites

lol yeah definately too early for a new turbo... the sane part of my username can tell me that. THe point is that this place is nuts for second hand parts going way cheap if you know what i mean. I love this town!... You blokes are probably right...just stick to my guns and go the sound, suspension route...and then get exhaust>PFC (or alternatively Momo or other engine management) > and FMIC... then trundle along from there... like you said before Cy. the real expensive stuff has to come first before you can have major play time. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149654-i-need-opinions/#findComment-2790511
Share on other sites

lol yeah definately too early for a new turbo... the sane part of my username can tell me that. THe point is that this place is nuts for second hand parts going way cheap if you know what i mean. I love this town!... You blokes are probably right...just stick to my guns and go the sound, suspension route...and then get exhaust>PFC (or alternatively Momo or other engine management) > and FMIC... then trundle along from there... like you said before Cy. the real expensive stuff has to come first before you can have major play time. :thumbsup:

Don't forget that the PFC is for manual cars only, and seeing as you've got an s1, it'd need a manual conversion, like mine or Cy's...

And Momo engine management? Huh?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149654-i-need-opinions/#findComment-2790665
Share on other sites

How very apt, Rob!

:P

lol..

...Didn't know the PFC was only for manuals...damn. Maybe i wil ahve to just go SAFC... any replacment Engine Management systems for auto's insteading of hacking the stock computer (or getting Greddy thing which will kill me and drive me insane)?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149654-i-need-opinions/#findComment-2792015
Share on other sites

lol..

...Didn't know the PFC was only for manuals...damn. Maybe i wil ahve to just go SAFC... any replacment Engine Management systems for auto's insteading of hacking the stock computer (or getting Greddy thing which will kill me and drive me insane)?

haltech

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149654-i-need-opinions/#findComment-2793518
Share on other sites

i'd suggest exhaust, engine management and a boost controller as the most basic mods...reason being ..exhaust mods will pose a lesser restriction on gas flow....better turbo response..and bang4buck power increase...should see ur boost go to about 8psi ...still no fun if u ask me...so a boost controller to raise this to 10psi (heard the $25 ones work fine for this)...then prolly a safc to see ur car doesn't R&R under increased boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149654-i-need-opinions/#findComment-2806552
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
We are not sure, no one has tried that.

As far as one of the first mods, swaybars make the car 100% more bareable.

a few of the Townsvillians have got PFC's running in auto GTR's etc...

as for the swaybars... I have already earmarked them for my attention pronto...possibly even before the subs go in.. the body roll and understeer is getting to be quite pain in the arse! espescailly with townsville being really wet at the moment, and there being a roundabout every 150m to negotiate!

got some tuff splits the other day which are making lovely sound... no ear splitting bass but i can get that later...

30Hz @ 88db from a 6" woofer [i'm sure it can go harder too:)]is fine for me :P

for now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149654-i-need-opinions/#findComment-2852198
Share on other sites

Not possible, someone has been telling you porky pies. GTR's don't come in auto, and can't be converted to auto.

sorry...R33 GSTST M spec or something like that

...I'm not thinking again.. I havn't seen it yet but the bloke is reputable... done a lot of work with RB's, and has done about 4 silvalines so i trust his word for the most part

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149654-i-need-opinions/#findComment-2852318
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...