Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

That's the motor, they have the same cast iron block as the '83-'91 E30 sixes, but have a twin cam head and better flow capabilities.

By memory the 83-91 SOHC is called an M20, the 91-97(ish) E36 DOHC sixes are called M52.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M20

http://www.bmwworld.com/engines/m52.htm

Like I said if you've got the cash, you could do the E36 M3 motor (think it's a S52B32 designation), but the later evolution motor in 3.2L is better.

u could do a half half motor, 323i head and 325i bottom end. gives a 2.8lt. just goin from memory here could of been 2.7lt. and cause ure car is an 85 it dosent have a cat (well mine didnt and it was an 85 as well) so get a nice exhaust system if u havent already cause m20's sound shit hot.

my opinion 2jz

i thought he wanted to be different? :(

thought about 1uzfe? strongest production engine in the world= potential potential potential, totally alloy engine and wouldnt ruin the dynamics of the car

ehm, not quite. i think i said it earlier in this thread. VH41DE > 1UZFE

find some pics of the bottom end of both and make you own judgement.

i can post some if you want.

vq35det? now that would f**king hammer

theyre turbo now? i thought they were only DE? or are you talking about the new gen stagea motors? i think theyre VQ series turbo engines. but only 3.0? and arent they AWD anyway?

unless youre talking about turbocharging a DE motor, in which case twin turbo would be easier. i wonder if the VG gear would fit...

1gzfe? (think thats the engine code) toyotas 6.0 v12 :drool: out of the century's if u could get a hold of one that is.

LOL. Good luck.

that is all.

i reckon look for a alloy block 6 or 8 and then u can have the best of both worlds

IMO, go an 8. then supercharge it maybe. or see if any production turbo bits'll fit. like CA/SR manifolds and the like.

id say go a VH41DE.

yeah i like the bmw, but damn parts are expensive for them. I think i might still stick with the SR20DET or some sort of rb im not between now and then i could just ditch the whole idea!!!

thanks for help guys and actually bringing to light the real potential of this car

cheers

darryn

u could do a half half motor, 323i head and 325i bottom end. gives a 2.8lt. just goin from memory here could of been 2.7lt. and cause ure car is an 85 it dosent have a cat (well mine didnt and it was an 85 as well) so get a nice exhaust system if u havent already cause m20's sound shit hot.

nah, that's not quite right.

you want a 325e with the eta crank and bottom end that gives 2.7L, then the 235i head for better flow. O/size pistons and you've got a 2.8 that actually revs to 7K unlike the 325e that died at around 5K.

That's what my white one in the post above had in it (and a reground cam, etc etc)

Yeah i might be liking the bmw angine more now as Qld is getting new laws in saying poeple with their p's are not allowed to drive turbo'd car, supercharged or high performance vehicles. But they will be finalised in the next month or so.

Does anybody know of any good bmw wreckers that sell engines or front cuts??? Cause up here their is no one lol!!!! or know of a good website???

cheers

darryn

Ok their all good ideas, but until then i wanna do my engine up a bit, its way to slow!!!

I only wanna spent about $1000 or under so give your best bang for buck ideas and give me a rough estiamate of costs??? dont go to insane lol!!!

cheers

darryn

Edited by Dread_smurf
Ok their all good ideas, but until then i wanna do my engine up a bit, its way to slow!!!

I only wanna spent about $1000 or under so give your best bang for buck ideas and give me a rough estiamate of costs??? dont go to insane lol!!!

cheers

darryn

your going to have to commit a bit more money than that to this project

a 1JZGTE is prob your best bang for buck engine and that will cost you $3000 for a front cut (giving you engine,gearbox and most things needed for conversion) then add labour

a 2JZGTTE will cost more like $4500 for a front cut plus labour to install

a SR20DET will cost not quite $3500 for front cut

a VH45 (nissan V8) approx $2800, a 1UZFE (Toyota V8) around $2000

in fact you wont find a decent motor (front cut) for under $2000 then you gotta add the costs of puting it into you BMW

so like i said your gonna have to be prepared to spend a little more than 1000 bucks, actually most of your budget will be taken up by the engine conversion

sorry to be the messenger of bad news

RellikZephyr

a VH45 (nissan V8) approx $2800, a 1UZFE (Toyota V8) around $2000

the only thing the VH45 has over the 41 is the 400cc's.

the VH41 is a tougher and better designed engine.

cheaper too.

540 cubic inch Indy Max alloy V8 with some nice alloy Hemi heads, efi & two turbos. Lighter than cast iron six block setup from either toyota and nissan and makes all the previously mentioned motors look like nerd conversions....

OR

Go here and do away with cars altogether once you learn the secrets of ultimate POWER!

www.ultimatepower.net

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...