Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

saved up around 6g to buy a souind system but it cant be installed untill like 2 months later. so i thought id spend it on the performance side.

i dont really wanna get one of those justjap intercoolers as i hear when u get to the higher power ends they tend to fail. so i was wondering what sort of cooler would be best suited for high power apps?

i was offered a blitz kit for around 1300.....can i get better?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150132-intercooler-question/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

saved up around 6g to buy a souind system but it cant be installed untill like 2 months later. so i thought id spend it on the performance side.

i dont really wanna get one of those justjap intercoolers as i hear when u get to the higher power ends they tend to fail. so i was wondering what sort of cooler would be best suited for high power apps?

i was offered a blitz kit for around 1300.....can i get better?

I got the Blitz LM FMIC for under $1000 from Nengun. IMO a great buy.

From various tests I have seen over the internet the ARC are the better of them all,

How much power/boost are you eventually goint to put through it?

I find it really hard to believe someone was losing 60KW from heatsoak in a FMIC, I was only loosing a mac of 5-10 through my standard SMIC.

Cheers

Josh

the blitz might be a great "buy" from nengun but how does the actual product come up against TRUST and HKS or even ARC coolers?

Put it this way.

Your not making 500rwkw are you?

And to be honest, who cares about your mates setup? We arent talking about his car, so its irrelevant.

So you can either be one of the following.

1) stupid. and spend over $1000 on some jap branded thing

2) smart. purchase a justjap/gtek or some other mid level brand

3) smartest. give me $1300, i'll spray Blitz onto a JJ cooler and give it too ya, and tell you its a Blitz cooler and have a wild night down at the Pink Palace.

You will be hard pressesed to pick the difference. You have a stock turbo, even with a hi-flow, you still wont be outside its boundaries by a long shot.

There are more than enough people making 250rwkw without much of a drama on option number 2, some even more.

Go with option 3 :laugh: its by far the best

the blitz might be a great "buy" from nengun but how does the actual product come up against TRUST and HKS or even ARC coolers?

I was not indicating quality, simply that Nengun offers the blitz kit for under $1000, which is $300 cheaper than where ever else he had looked.

I did not buy mine for the "brand name" as such. I did not spray BLITZ across the front of mine.

One of the main reasons I got the kit was so that I didnt have to cut any holes for the pipework, but now I want a new plazmaman plenum it makes it hard with the pipework (would be even longer path than it has now due to the end tank return style) and I think when I do this it will be Bye bye Blitz LM.

What exactly has been done to your car? I agree with greddygo I find it hard to believe you would lose that much power on a FMIC.I decided on the blitz kit mainly for the reason it was pretty much a direct fit and we didnt have to cut any holes in the chassis or trim the fan blades for the return pipe. I didnt spray blitz on mine either and would prefer it to be bland as Idont want to attract theives.

Cheers

R31nismoid - :)

Totally agree - infact - go halves? :D

In all seriousness though - Your paying for a name brand, the jj ones prove to work well, mine works a treat for what Im using.

If you have stock turbo, exhaust, basic mods - jj ones are great. why spend another 500 -1k when you could put that savings to fuel pump or injectors?

I asked about justjap coolers a while ago - few guys her ehavethem and support 250rwkw no worries.

However I can understand people not wanting to cut holes in their cars.

Put it this way.

Your not making 500rwkw are you?

And to be honest, who cares about your mates setup? We arent talking about his car, so its irrelevant.

So you can either be one of the following.

1) stupid. and spend over $1000 on some jap branded thing

2) smart. purchase a justjap/gtek or some other mid level brand

3) smartest. give me $1300, i'll spray Blitz onto a JJ cooler and give it too ya, and tell you its a Blitz cooler and have a wild night down at the Pink Palace.

You will be hard pressesed to pick the difference. You have a stock turbo, even with a hi-flow, you still wont be outside its boundaries by a long shot.

There are more than enough people making 250rwkw without much of a drama on option number 2, some even more.

Go with option 3 :) its by far the best

i might not be making 500rwkw but who knows what will happen in the future....id rather spend my money on something good then later buy another intercooler. and my mates car is relevant because his car is pretty much identical to mine. all he has is a bigger turbo....which wont take me long to get aswell.

if ur telling me that justjaps intercoolers are just as good as HKS BLITZ OR ARC....infact anyones....please let me know because from my findings they are not. around the 300rwkw range they seem to fail heavily during heatsoak. and let me tell u 300rwkw is nothing impossible.

so please nismoid dont give me that 1 2 3 crap seriously cuz i can pretty much say already if we both had 300rwkw cars and u slapped a justjap cooler and i went with a hks one.......ud probelry be the one who wasted ur money.

lol but thanks for the humour

oh and just for u guys who asked about my setup.

Full 3" Turbo Back Exhaust

Pod filter

bigger turbo but that fell through when Power FCs were discountinued.....thats the reason why im looking for one....and if i was getting a bigger turbo tahts gonna support around 300rwkws....id want a cooler that does its job good

Edited by anDru
if ur telling me that justjaps intercoolers are just as good as HKS BLITZ OR ARC....infact anyones....please let me know because from my findings they are not.

Please post up your reasearch/testing/finding for us.

Thanks.

saved up around 6g to buy a souind system but it cant be installed untill like 2 months later. so i thought id spend it on the performance side.

i dont really wanna get one of those justjap intercoolers as i hear when u get to the higher power ends they tend to fail. so i was wondering what sort of cooler would be best suited for high power apps?

i was offered a blitz kit for around 1300.....can i get better?

What power are you planning on chasing?

There are people on this forum pushing up to and over 500hp at the wheels through the intercoolers that Just Jap sells.

Best not to believe everything you hear.

What power are you planning on chasing?

There are people on this forum pushing up to and over 500hp at the wheels through the intercoolers that Just Jap sells.

Best not to believe everything you hear.

yeh exactly thats why i asked that in this forum.....if thats the truth id be more then happy to get a jj brand cooler. but ppl just start saying im not even going to be pushing 250rwkw.

i think id be happi pushing just over 300....350 would be awsome. i know its a lil earli atm but with the turbo and the power FC im waiting on i was quoted around 280rwkws

all i want to know is will JJ brand coolers support high end power. or would the branded (or anyothers infact) be better>?

Please post up your reasearch/testing/finding for us.

Thanks.

id be glad to but the thing is these findings aint digital...they are actual friends cars. i had a friend with a 33 and antoher with a supra. both complaining that jj brand coolers are great for low or even mid end power...but wen u start pushing 250+ they start losing power.....the supra mate even bought a Blitz kit and instantly saw the difference.

Edited by anDru

You should be more concerned about your engine's internals rather then the FMIC at 300+rw/kw... At $345 the Just Jap FMIC kit will be more then enough and if later on you are chasing 300+rw/kw you will only need to change the core to the Just Jap 600 x 300 x 100 FMIC which is only $299 and use the same piping... FMIC cores are almost all the same the difference in Blitz, HKS, Greddy and Just Jap are minimal in most street applications... the difference in price will get you a decent EBC and more...

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...