Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anDru,

if you would like a custom matched intercooler for your application then these guys are excellent.

www.are.com.au

Steer clear of the 'bolt on boy' approach and you will get better value for your money spent even if you spend a little more in total.

As they say "buy cheap buy twice"

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

You should be more concerned about your engine's internals rather then the FMIC at 300+rw/kw... At $345 the Just Jap FMIC kit will be more then enough and if later on you are chasing 300+rw/kw you will only need to change the core to the Just Jap 600 x 300 x 100 FMIC which is only $299 and use the same piping... FMIC cores are almost all the same the difference in Blitz, HKS, Greddy and Just Jap are minimal in most street applications... the difference in price will get you a decent EBC and more...

Cheers

like i said....300+rwkws is something for the future....nothing at present.... id like to have the peace of mind that i already have a cooler that can support me if i do go 300+ rather then thinkin "damnet gotta get another cooler"

get my drift?

anDru,

if you would like a custom matched intercooler for your application then these guys are excellent.

www.are.com.au

Steer clear of the 'bolt on boy' approach and you will get better value for your money spent even if you spend a little more in total.

As they say "buy cheap buy twice"

its a bit hard to deal with someone that isnt located in VIC rev210....especially if its custom work.

Ive had cheap kits, and expensive ones

I couldnt notice any difference whatsoever

IMO the cheap kits do just as good a job - ill be buying one for my 33 soon

yeh but if u had a 50kw car onviously u wouldnt notice the difference. not saying u had a 50kw car but u get my point :)

Edited by anDru
its a bit hard to deal with someone that isnt located in VIC rev210....especially if its custom work.

:) you've gotta be kidding dude...

1) Purchase core from ARE

2) Take it to a Vic workshop/fabricator/your best mates old man's brothers mate who thinks he can weld half decently

3) Fit cooler and be happy

Just because a supplier isnt in the same state, does not mean you cant have a cooler fitting to the car.

Fitting custom piping etc isnt expensive.

sounds like u got all the answers nismoid....so tell me what do i do if i have some problems with the product......should i fly over to QLD? or maybe i should of bought that jj brand cooler u suggested, or maybe even send the thing back.....wait a few months for a reply only to realise theres no refunds.

is it that hard to believe i would much prefer to deal with someone near me then someone on the other side of the country.

im not saying im going to have these problems with ARE........for all i know they the best company in the world. but i just feel better knowing i can drive down to the shop and see it all happening, instead of waiting at home thinkin god knows wats happening

Edited by anDru

Andru, why post a thread and ask for advice when your only going to get smart at the advice provided? Nismoid and other forum members have extensive performance experience and will only suggest their opinion to help you out! Of coarse any performance shop will tell you that China copy coolers are rubbish only so they can sell you a product which they are making a larger profit margin on. If I was in your shoes I'd research the forums cause this topic has been covered 100 times... time and time again, Just Jap coolers have been used in large power applications with no issues. As i also stated, at 300+rw/kw a FMIC is the least of your worries. A blitz FMIC won’t save your engine's internals from shattering with 300+rw/kw power levels... so until your ready to spend for a rebuild and large turbo and are aiming to build a 10 sec machine, the Just Jap coolers will fulfill your requirements...

Best of luck!

Regards,

Sarkis

Edited by QRI05E
You going to go back to Japan if your Blitz one has a problem?

JJ arent in Melb either

I dont see the problem

why would i go back to japan if theres 600 official dealers of Blitz Products in VIC let alone australia.

and the difference between blitz and jj as aposed to ARE....is that one is bolt on....and one is custom.

its alot harder to work with something know ones ever seen before.

u rkn i could walk into any store here in VIC and go "hey by buddy nismoid recommended ARE coolers...they seem okai but it dosnt fit....wat u rkn i should do" or would it be better to walk into the shop i bought it form and tell em...look dosnt fit...fix it

:)

Edited by anDru
As i also stated, at 300+rw/kw a FMIC is the least of your worries. A blitz FMIC won’t save your engine's internals from shattering with 300+rw/kw power levels... so until your ready to spend for a rebuild and large turbo and are aiming to build a 10 sec machine, the Just Jap coolers will fulfill your requirements...

Best of luck!

Regards,

Sarkis

like i said sarkis.......its for future purposes.....u got a point engine internals would be more importent...but if i get a crappy cooler to start with its only going to add to my problems....can u understand what im saying?

from the sound of things JJ brand coolers are pretty good....i just dont understand why half the ppl say they tend to fail. i have yet to see someone come on and say "i have no problems and ive got 500hp"

thats the reason why im still debating this....thats all...

u rkn i could walk into any store here in VIC and go "hey by buddy nismoid recommended ARE coolers...they seem okai but it dosnt fit....wat u rkn i should do"

:)

I bet if you walked into a store and used good english... like..

Hi. I have just purcahsed this ARE cooler core. How much would it be to have the piping custom made?

Then your highly likely to get a decent response, a decent price and a cooler fitted for half the cost of something Japanese labelled

just for every1s info.

I ran my GKtech Cooler close to 300rwkw...no problems at all basically getting as much power out of the car possible and runs fine all the time on the street. I have run it on 40 degree days...seems to be fine I have never noticed any major issues.

If I was gonna run it on a track...might upgrade to a HKS or ARC and I was thinking of doing that one day...but i have upgraded everything else so its the last thing.

So many people wanna run to 300+ few do...it costs money doods and as mentioned there are so many pieces to the puzzle to get it relaible and make it drivable.

Get some good rims instead and make it look cool. But the GKTech for like 500...seems to go ok for most mild mods and I consider 250-280 mild...

I understand where your comming from Andru, and like you i would want to make the right choice when purchasing any performance product... but PRICE Vs BENIFITS = Just Jap

for $345 with everything you need to fit, you cant go worng... even if you decide to sell the kit in 12months time, you will still get $250 - $300...

Regards,

Sarkis

I bet if you walked into a store and used good english... like..

Hi. I have just purcahsed this ARE cooler core. How much would it be to have the piping custom made?

Then your highly likely to get a decent response, a decent price and a cooler fitted for half the cost of something Japanese labelled

nismoid thats a pretty stupid statement no offence.....why would i wanna spend even more money fixing it.......when i could of gotten something that worked the 1st time

I understand where your comming from Andru, and like you i would want to make the right choice when purchasing any performance product... but PRICE Vs BENIFITS = Just Jap

for $345 with everything you need to fit, you cant go worng... even if you decide to sell the kit in 12months time, you will still get $250 - $300...

Regards,

Sarkis

but if i buy a blitz kit for 1000 that means i spent 1500 on intercoolers when that extra 500 could of went into injectors or something else.

Edited by anDru

anDru,

You have come here and asked what people think you should do, but you seem to have all the information that you need. You obviously already had your mind made up before you asked the question. I say stick with the information you already have, get your self a Blitz and be happy...

Unless you get a Jap brand cooler, your not going to be satisfied that its going to do the job you require, so get one.

These guys have extensive knowledge, through experience. If I recall, I think R31Nismoid had a 360rwkw car last time I got any figures? What was/is it Nismoid?

Unless you want some good critical advice, dont bother asking questions.

nismoid thats a pretty stupid statement no offence.....why would i wanna spend even more money fixing it.......when i could of gotten something that worked the 1st time

but if i buy a blitz kit for 1000 that means i spent 1500 on intercoolers when that extra 500 could of went into injectors or something else.

what are you talking about?

anDru,

You have come here and asked what people think you should do, but you seem to have all the information that you need. You obviously already had your mind made up before you asked the question. I say stick with the information you already have, get your self a Blitz and be happy...

Unless you get a Jap brand cooler, your not going to be satisfied that its going to do the job you require, so get one.

These guys have extensive knowledge, through experience. If I recall, I think R31Nismoid had a 360rwkw car last time I got any figures? What was/is it Nismoid?

Unless you want some good critical advice, dont bother asking questions.

my apologizes if i have made this sound a lil one sided.......but believe it or not i dont have all the answers. nismoid proberly does have exstensive knowledge and thank god he does cuz i wouldnt want any less, but i just really hate going with somethign that will end up costing me more. or even worse spending to much on something that i could have got for half price.

i just wanna clarify that any critisism is taken into account maturely and no offence is taken. this is a proper discussion and i want to keep it that way

what are you talking about?

they are 2 different comments nismoid..try seperating them :)

Edited by anDru

i think ill conclude this discussion because i think its gettin a lil side tracked..

ill give the JJ brands a go and pray that they hold their ground.

everyone will be hearing from me if they dont....LOL...cheers guys...especially u nismoid...always a plesure to deal with someone like urself :)

Like I said before, just get a Jap cooler. If you get a JJ cooler you will always look at it and wish it was a Jap one.

If your running for a 400rwkw car, then theres no point getting anything else, besides if thats the power you want, you must be loaded... so just do it... and then dont come back whinging

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...