Jump to content
SAU Community

Easier To Ask Locally.....manual Conversion

Matty 31

By Matty 31,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Matty 31 Grand Master

Matty 31

Posted
Posted

Hey guys

i kno how hard parts can be to find for manual conversions (ie like my 31.........manual parts are gettin thin on the ground). mate of mine is about to pay for a r32 gtst m spec 4 door in auto form.

wants to do a manual conversion. I know RB20 box prices, and i kno that RB30 manual flywheels fit. its just everything else im not sure of, and he wants an idea of part prices and what would be needed. i think i still hav the crossmember from the 20 box i bought, but im not 100% sure where it is LOL

any help would be great, as i'll prob end up helpin him do it

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Whats the car used for?

Street duties? He may be better off with a 3k stall convertor and shift kit. Push the boost in to it and the manual will have a damn hard time keeping up with it off the line.

Auto's are always better for straight line. If thats what he enjoys and does most keep the auto. >_<

Ryanrb25 Grand Master

Ryanrb25

Posted
Posted

i think i have a 32 manual crossmember laying around..

remember my thread on 31 forums. massive write up, simu;lar thing for most skylines.

remember to remove auto spigot bush out of the rear of the crank and insert the porus bronze spigot into the crank for the input shaft of the box, if you dont, youll have to pull the box back out anyways...

if you need any help ive done about 5 manual conversions.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

There's one bloke here thats dropping his car in today and is being SLUGGED $4800 for a drive in drive out auto to manual conversion with an Rb20t gearbox.

$1400 drive in drive out is well priced. All most too well when you consider the price of a new clutch, the box, centre console, pedal box, tail shaft, clutch master and slave. I would expect up around 2k to 2.5k.

Matty 31 Grand Master

Matty 31

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i think i have a 32 manual crossmember laying around..

remember my thread on 31 forums. massive write up, simu;lar thing for most skylines.

remember to remove auto spigot bush out of the rear of the crank and insert the porus bronze spigot into the crank for the input shaft of the box, if you dont, youll have to pull the box back out anyways...

if you need any help ive done about 5 manual conversions.

yeh, used that when i did mine, pete (66 skyline gt) helped me out

cost me 1000 just in parts and i got a few freebies

salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted (edited)
There's one bloke here thats dropping his car in today and is being SLUGGED $4800 for a drive in drive out auto to manual conversion with an Rb20t gearbox.

$1400 drive in drive out is well priced. All most too well when you consider the price of a new clutch, the box, centre console, pedal box, tail shaft, clutch master and slave. I would expect up around 2k to 2.5k.

Yeah, that's what I got quoted 1.5yrs ago, so costs may have changed? And they also supply a 2nd hand stock clutch, it would help if you brought a new aftermarket clutch to them, the stock ones dont last too long anyway.

Edited by salad
Tommmo Proficient

Tommmo

Posted
Posted (edited)
Boostworx will do it for just over 2 and a half with a new xtreme hd clutch.. got mine done and it drives absolutely awesome..

how about a stagea manual conversion?

what do they cost?

Edited by Tommmo
Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted (edited)

Everything I've read on Stag manual conversions so far leads me to believe it's not worth the trouble.

For starters you need a R33 GTR gbox. $$$

Just get a later model manual to begin with.

Edited by Oosh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Duncan
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Duncan · Posted

      Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...