Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I posted this in Specific Auto discussion, but i know there are some wise SA people who don't alway check in there so i thought i would try my luck here too.

So i think i have a coil pack problem, i did a quick search through the posts on here and it seems as if this is the go but i thought i would just make sure and ask others if they had the same things happen.

This has only happened to me twice, both in the last month. The first time i had just got out of the drive way and all of a sudden the TCS and SLIP dash lights came on as did the check engine light. The check engine light went off, but TCS and SLIP stayed on. The car still drove fine, so i got where i needed to go and then shut the car off. When i came back to the car i turned it on and it started no problems, but the A/T (Auto/triptronic) light started flashing, it flashed a number of times and then went off. After that i drove the car around no worries then yesterday i got in the car turned it on, reversed down the drive way and as i reached the bottom the TCS and SLIP lights came on again and stayed on, and the check engine light came on and then went off. I drove the car back up the driveway and turned it off. I then turned it straight back on and the A/T light flashed a number of times (16 i think i counted). I turned it off, then back on and it started fine, no warning lights at all.

As i said i think it is a coil pack problem from what i have read, the car is going in for a service Wednesday (in 2 days) so i want to get the problem fixed then. So i'm just making sure this is the problem and that others had the same type things happen to them. Also how did others work out which coil was bad?

*****EDIT******

I ran a Self-Diagnostic and got Error Codes

26 -----Turbo Pressure Senor Signal Circuit: Turbo pressure sensor output voltage is aprox 4.8V or greater open circuit or less than 0.06V closed circuit for a predetermined time.

43----- Throttle Position Sensor Signal Circuit: Throttle position sensor output voltage is aprox 4.7V or greater open circuit or less than 0.06 short circuit for a predetermined time while park/neutral position switch is OFF and vehicle speed is 4 km/h or higher.

So aparantly these are my problems, but i have also heard of people having coil pack problems and the 21 code not showing up and them getting other fault codes instead. Yet when the coils were changed the other issues went away. Has anyone had these fault/error codes on there 34 before?

Cheers

Sean

Edited by mxtcy

Hi Sean,

I know at least on the CA18DE that the warning lights come on when your engine misfires from a coil. Not sure about the RB motor though - is it running really rough when the lights come on? Is it just on idle or when you apply throttle? One way to check, providing it does it on idle, is removing the ornament cover and looking for stray sparks under the coils. If it's doing it on higher rpm's, then you'll probably need a spare coil and replace them one at a time.

Best thing to do from time to time, even if you don't have any coil problems, is to remove the coilpack, clean up the tips for any carbon deposits, then silicone spray the inside of the boot and the coil body.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Howie

I had the problem myself last week in my 32. We took the ornamental cover off, started the engine (Make sure its cold and problem is present), then one at a time unplug a coil. If the motor goes slugish, then that coil is not the problem. Do it until you unplug one that makes no difference to the idle. Turn off engine, take out the coil and more than likely you'll find it has arc'd out or the like. Had 3 go in mine, wasnt nice :)

I ran a Self-Diagnostic and got Error Codes

26 -----Turbo Pressure Senor Signal Circuit: Turbo pressure sensor output voltage is aprox 4.8V or greater open circuit or less than 0.06V closed circuit for a predetermined time.

43----- Throttle Position Sensor Signal Circuit: Throttle position sensor output voltage is aprox 4.7V or greater open circuit or less than 0.06 short circuit for a predetermined time while park/neutral position switch is OFF and vehicle speed is 4 km/h or higher.

So aparantly these are my problems, but i have also heard of people having coil pack problems and the 21 code not showing up and them getting other fault codes instead. Yet when the coils were changed the other issues went away. Has anyone had these fault/error codes on there 34 before?

It actually sounds to me like your throttle position sensor may be up the creek mate. The TPS is linked into the auto trans & traction control systems so there's a good chance that may be the problem.

I'd be looking at other things first besides the coils if you are not having any problems with the way the engine is running. Does it go ok on full throttle both from low revs & on max boost? If it does I'm a bit doubtfull about it being coils.

The TPS may even just need a slight adjustment.

The turbo overboost could be attributed to the exhaust & front mount if the sensors maximum isn't very high. I'd say it's likely irrelivant to your problem.

Edited by JazzaR33

Yeah could even be just a dodgy connection if it's not faulting all the time. Or if it's the TPS & it's just slightly worn in a couple spots it may play up intermittently.

Will be interested to see what they find

Yeah could even be just a dodgy connection if it's not faulting all the time. Or if it's the TPS & it's just slightly worn in a couple spots it may play up intermittently.

Will be interested to see what they find

Results are in....

... car is perfect!

Mechanic said its nothing to worry about as he couldn't find anything at all wrong with the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...