Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im in tokyo and shopping around for a gtr in 32 guise. i will be buying one as a daily driver and then exporting it back to australia under the personal imports scheme.

i have checked King Buyers website ( has anyone else seen the crazy rides theyve got for sale? if not google it and start drooling ! )and they have a few unbelievable gtrs that seem very reasonably priced ( around the 1.1 million to 1.8 million yen mark ) which equates to roughly 16 thousand australian.

my questions are thus,

1. If the car has a rollcage, can it still pass ADR's?

2. Do top mount turbos also pass?

3. in respect to the first two questions, realistically, what mods will i be able to keep and which ones have to

be replaced with stock items, taking personal import leniency ( if you could call it leniency, that is )?

4. I have noticed a downward trend in GTR values of late, yet id like to hear what you think one would be

worth with all the fruit?

5. If possible can anyone give me a ballpark figure on what it would cost once all is said and done and the thing is on the road back in oz?

im hoping some or all of these can be answered by people in Oz who are in the know.

im ready to drop some serious cash and i need some serious advice.

cheers for the help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150647-a-few-questions-from-an-expat/
Share on other sites

If you bring it in as a personal import then you virtually have an open slather as the car will not have to comply various ADR's

If you want a seriously modified but good quality car, you will need someone in the know to help you locate one - I will pm you some details shortly that will help you

An answer to all your questions as i am a VIC signitory for a RAWS company.

All thes Answers are based on the fact it is a personal import

If it is coming in under RAWS then the car has to be COMPLETLEY STANDARD

1. If the car has a rollcage, can it still pass ADR's?

NO, un less it is welded in and does not pass the front driver head

Keep in mind if it is a bolt in unit you can just removbe it and re-fit it later

2. Do top mount turbos also pass?

Yes, if it still passes emmission

3. in respect to the first two questions, realistically, what mods will i be able to keep and which ones have to

be replaced with stock items, taking personal import leniency ( if you could call it leniency, that is )?

All mods must be removed before the car can be complianced

4. I have noticed a downward trend in GTR values of late, yet id like to hear what you think one would be

worth with all the fruit?

It is worth what ever the buyer will pay for it, if you have the right car R32 can still fetch good money as they are getting old and collectable 2 months ago i know that was sold for $35K Keep in mind that there are also alot here on the market for under $20k just due to the fact they are very average

5. If possible can anyone give me a ballpark figure on what it would cost once all is said and done and the thing is on the road back in oz?

Depends excuse the sarcasim How deep is a hole?

An answer to all your questions as i am a VIC signitory for a RAWS company.

All thes Answers are based on the fact it is a personal import

If it is coming in under RAWS then the car has to be COMPLETLEY STANDARD

1. If the car has a rollcage, can it still pass ADR's?

NO, un less it is welded in and does not pass the front driver head

Keep in mind if it is a bolt in unit you can just removbe it and re-fit it later

2. Do top mount turbos also pass?

Yes, if it still passes emmission

3. in respect to the first two questions, realistically, what mods will i be able to keep and which ones have to

be replaced with stock items, taking personal import leniency ( if you could call it leniency, that is )?

All mods must be removed before the car can be complianced

4. I have noticed a downward trend in GTR values of late, yet id like to hear what you think one would be

worth with all the fruit?

It is worth what ever the buyer will pay for it, if you have the right car R32 can still fetch good money as they are getting old and collectable 2 months ago i know that was sold for $35K Keep in mind that there are also alot here on the market for under $20k just due to the fact they are very average

5. If possible can anyone give me a ballpark figure on what it would cost once all is said and done and the thing is on the road back in oz?

Depends excuse the sarcasim How deep is a hole?

Stealth, it will be a private import. it will not be coming in under raws.You have said that all mods must be removed prior to compliancing. Yet you say that top mount turbos are admissable. these are not standard parts. so can you clarify what parts are admissable under the private import scheme? a little more detail will help a great deal to me and anyone else in this situation and seeing as you are a signatory you may well be able to offer some timely advice in this area..

cheers

Adam, a personal import is subject to state registration requirements, that's about it.

thats a big surprise but it begs another question. If my car has twin GT2835 pro S turbos, packing 700 hp,half cage, dash loaded with blitz, hks and APEXi gauges, a turbo timer, torque splitter, 20 inch rims, is wide body, has a GT wing, covered in stickers, not to mention a custom pearl paint job, then id realistically be able to register it for the street?

i know im being pedantic, but this is an extreme example. its not a logical one but i just had to ask.

realistically, consider a 500hp version of the above...

if what you say iis true Razorsharp, then you have made me a happy man.

Still, is it really going to be worth my time effort and money maintaining a car like that in Japan, exporting it back to oz, only to find that the market has deteriorated even further?

ive been watching market trends and checking info over the past 2 years ive been living away from OZ and im concerned at how sharply prices have been declining across the board. A 1993 GTR with 70k odd kilometeres, in decent nick and with some fruit that was selling for up to 35 thousand dollars is now just 20!! Its led me to question whether its still financially viable to export a car..albeit at the rate of only 1 per year. That one car could boost my yearly earnings here by as much as 10 Thousand AUS. Is there something im missing? You are a long time member of SAU so im sure youre more clued in than I as to whats been going on back there. Care to shed any light on this subject.. cause sometimes i feel like a mushroom over here..kept in the dark and fed bullshite.

maybe ill go European. Euro's hold their value better than Japanese, IMHO.

Edited by m3gtr

It also depends why you are buying it....

If you are buying for yourself, for long-term ownership, then it is worth buying a well modified version...

On the otherhand, if you are imprting it to sell, you may not end up making as much money as you think.

Something EURO might be the go, but make sure it is something rare, that will make it worthwhile.

It also depends why you are buying it....

If you are buying for yourself, for long-term ownership, then it is worth buying a well modified version...

On the otherhand, if you are imprting it to sell, you may not end up making as much money as you think.

Something EURO might be the go, but make sure it is something rare, that will make it worthwhile.

heres the link for the site. even if youre just browsing theres some decent erotica in there to get the juices flowing..

not sure about their rep though.. there have been conflicting reports on the net. Im going to check the place out next weekend after i got to Tokyo auto salon!

www.king-buyer.co.jp/

Insanity, ive posted a question about Euros. I wonder if its possible to import one under the private import scheme in LHD guise?? do they have to be a certain age to qualify? i wonder whats involved..

heres the link for the site. even if youre just browsing theres some decent erotica in there to get the juices flowing..

not sure about their rep though.. there have been conflicting reports on the net. Im going to check the place out next weekend after i got to Tokyo auto salon!

www.king-buyer.co.jp/

Insanity, ive posted a question about Euros. I wonder if its possible to import one under the private import scheme in LHD guise?? do they have to be a certain age to qualify? i wonder whats involved..

Oh, and Insanity, what would you consider to be rare and collectable from Euro stables??

Oh, and Insanity, what would you consider to be rare and collectable from Euro stables??

The 190 you mentioned in your other post...

for the Mercs, the AMG variants seem to be fairly abundant over there...

the Beemers, maybe less so for top line cars..

just don't go buying a 318i or anything... not that you would...

I'd even steer away from the top range models (5 & 7 series etc) that are available here, unless there is a huge price difference.

Edited by insanity
The 190 you mentioned in your other post...

for the Mercs, the AMG variants seem to be fairly abundant over there...

the Beemers, maybe less so for top line cars..

just don't go buying a 318i or anything... not that you would...

I'd even steer away from the top range models (5 & 7 series etc) that are available here, unless there is a huge price difference.

318! no need to worry there! :)

ive never seen so many AMG's in my life...its getting to the point where an AMG merc is simply passe.

whoa..did i just say that?? its like every merc you see here is practically AMG...same with 32's for example..i have a running joke with a mate " every 32's a GTR"..and its practically like that.

still..of the AMG's here most of them are LHD and it looks like that will be a fly in the ointment for me..

RHD's are available but the price difference is noticable..

decisions, decisions...what to do. :laugh:

not sure about their rep though.. there have been conflicting reports on the net. Im going to check the place out next weekend after i got to Tokyo auto salon!

www.king-buyer.co.jp

DO NOT buy a car from king buyer... they'll rip you off, esp if you're gaijin. The cars on the website are never in stock (ie sold by the time you contact em) and most often prettied up to sell to other countries. You'd be surprised what a cut n polish does to cars in photos.

If you're after a GTR, there's a couple of dealers in japan I can give you addresses to that sell quality cars. Whereabouts are you?

If I were you and shopping for a car to bring to Australia, buy a car that is unique, ie not on the eligible to import list, or too highly modified to be imported under SEVS. I'd say a worked NSX, WRX STi, or a pimped out late model Toyota Celsior (Lexus GS400/450 here) or a JZS161 Toyota Aristo twin turbo with heaps of mods (Lexus GS300/400 here)

Keep in mind personal imports still have to have a very minor compliance process, part of which is an emissions cert depending on the state you're in.

Yeah, I'm with funky on this one... best to steer clear of dealers like this... you will get a much better deal working with someone and going to an Auction or something... if you can find someone happy enough and able to do that for you!!!

Edited by insanity

Right after hours of looking at lots of PDF files i think i have a basic knowledge of what is required to attemp this.

Firstly you must apply for a personal import and be able to supply the required documentation to support these requirements to gain approval to import the car into australia.

If you gain approval then you will be issued with the four copies of the import approval, these are required for the next steps.

1. Clear the vehicle from the point of entry

2.Obtain a personal import plate

3.For the registering authority

4. Owners records

Car must then visit the VASS system for the personal import plate to be attached ( in Victoria at least). To pass ADR's 5, 22, 34.

Car MUST be right hand drive and run on unleaded fuel.

Car must then have a RWC and the you book the car in to get it registered.

I guess this means that if the car has any mods if they pass road worthy then they will be ok so i guess we would need to check with a RWC issuer and check with them what is ok and what is not.

Just on a side note, can I suggest a crazy R33 GTR or even a R34 GTR with mods.

From what I've seen if you're in QLD as long as you can get the import papers aboved mentioned and a RWC (no emmissions tests here) you should be fine. Though I'd suggest side intrusion bars for your own safety.

Good luck mate!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...