Jump to content
SAU Community

Precision Turbochargers Ball Bearing Highflow - R32, R33, R34 & Vg30


Recommended Posts

Introduction:

As most of you know, I have been in touch with Precision Turbochargers in Sydney and have organised a Group Buy for SAU with very competitive prices compared to other well known companies as well as the highest quality in craftsmanship and service guaranteed.

Service:

Garrett Core Ball Bearing High-flow overhauls for all R32, R33, R34 and VG30 turbochargers. These guys can also high-flow WRX, 200SX, 180SX and many more. PM me with your info and ill get you a price.

Specifications:

The High-flow consists of a complete overhaul on your factory turbo including machining the compressor and turbine housings and then fitting a genuine Garrett Ball Bearing High-flow pack with steel wheels.

Power Ability:

R32 Precision Ball Bearing (450HP) High-flow - 235rw/kw

R33 Precision Ball Bearing (500HP) High-flow - 260rw/kw

R34 Precision Ball Bearing (550HP) High-flow - 285rw/kw

VG30 Precision Ball Bearing (550HP) High-flow - 285rw/kw

Dyno Proof:

Here is a dyno print of an R33 GTST with stock standard intenals using a Precision Turbocharger's Rb25 highflow with a VG30 exhaust housing. This car was tunned using a Haltech E11v2 along with other supporting mods and on Shell V-Racing Fuel. It made 280.9rw/kw @ 17.65 PSI. These turbos are made for a premium efficiency @ 25 psi therefore this turbo still has a lot to go!

post-23753-1169186991.jpg post-23753-1169187029.jpg

Genuine Garrett Ball Bearing Core:

Here are a couple picks of the Garrett Ball Bearing core and steel wheels that are used in the RB25 & VG30 highflows.

post-23753-1170056286.jpg post-23753-1170056369.jpg

References:

Many well known workshops are using Precision Turbochargers and you are more them welcome to contact them and ask them about these high-flows.

Tune House

Ph: 02 9557 4000

http://www.tunehouse.com/

V&E Rigoli Racing

Ph: 9756 3413

http://www.rigoli.com.au/

GB Price:

(RRP: $1700)

R32 Precision Ball Bearing (450HP) High-flow - $1550

R33 Precision Ball Bearing (500HP) High-flow - $1550

R34 Precision Ball Bearing (550HP) High-flow - $1550

VG30 Precision Ball Bearing (550HP) High-flow - $1550

FREE - Postage & Delivery

Conditions:

In order to get this service at these discount prices, we will need a minimum of 5 orders at one time. I will create a list and once the first 5 people have confirmed their order, I will PM you a reference number as well as the bank account details where you will need to deposit the full amount and send your turbo to be high-flowed. If you live in Sydney, then you can save a little by taking your turbo in person to the workshop and you will still need the reference number provided by me to get these prices.

GB Start Date - 10/01/2007

GB End Date - 26/02/2007

(Note: I will be getting some dyno sheets as well as pictures as soon as possible)

Regards,

Sarkis

GB Confirmation List:

1. QRI05E (R33)

2. tmc_2 (R33)

3. Ol_Mate (R33)

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

Edited by QRI05E
  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes, they come with everything needed to bolt straight back on...

EDIT: Yes, Postage in now included

Cheers

Edited by QRI05E

Just got a call from Precision Turbo's and was told that if we get a list of 10 comfirmations, he will try and get them all done at a better price... so common guys if you are intrested in an exceptional value, then PM me!

Cheers

Yep i sure will as soon as i get them... hopfully early next week... you can also contact Tune House or V&E Rigoli regarding these highflows... they will tell you their personal oppinion..

Cheers

Pardon my interruption, but we need to clear up some facts.

1. 500 bhp is not 260 rwkw, well not in any Skyline I have seen. More like ~300 rwkw.

2. Similarly 550 bhp is ~340 rwkw.

That's a pretty big high flow using the standard turbine and compressor covers, albeit machined. I would be asking about compressor surge issues at that sort of power levels.

:laugh: cheers :laugh:

there are different ratings for at the engine,flywheel,at the wheels or the rear wheels.so i think someone that knows how to convert kilowatts at the real wheels to what it is at the engine would help. :laugh:

there are different ratings for at the engine,flywheel,at the wheels or the rear wheels.so i think someone that knows how to convert kilowatts at the real wheels to what it is at the engine would help. :laugh:

I do.

I did.

Based on over 30 Skylines that have been on our engine and chassis dynos

550 bhp / 1.34 = 410 kw

Drive train and roller losses in a typical R34GTT (mine for example) are around 60 - 70 kw

Hence 340 rwkw.

:laugh: Cheers :laugh:

I have been advised that there is a 30% power loss through the drive train... therefore 500hp = 372.85kw - 30% = 260.99rw/kw... please correct me if i am mistaken...

Cheers

I have had a few beers. Will this help make my car sound more like a jet taking off. Will this also help my car take off liek a jet? I am looking for a big mid range punch rather than top end (3500 + RPM for full boost is very nice, lower is much better) I want a responce/torque monster rather than a drag car. I am swaying towards a 25/30, 28/35 - although a bolt on sounds very nice as it makes everything look legal! What the general consensus? As per my sig i have a S2 33 gtst

Thankyou.

That is all :laugh: dont call me before 12 tomorrow :)

Edited by Chris_R33GTSt

This highflow will give you a big HP increast through out yout rev range and being ball bearing, it will spool faster then journal and bush bearing highflows... i also got a S2 R33 and am going to get one of these highflows done.. If you want to be part of the group buy, PM me and ill add your name to the confirmation list.

Cheers

Just would like to clear up any misconception about these highflows. Precision Turbochargers use a genuine Garrett ball bearing high flow pack which Garrett themself rate at 500HP. Just call any of those performance workshops i listed and ask them, i did and they stated those power figures.

Regards,

Sarkis

Hi Sarkis,

Will be wanting to upgrade my turbo soon as the standard one in my car is becoming the limiting factor.

The only problem is(and im not meaning to change anyones minds about these turbos) is paying $1550 for a BB high flow producing 260rwkw worth it compared to paying $1040 for a journal high flow producing the same power? There is also the option of buying aftermarket turbos for $1550 producing alot more power.

I guess there also the fact that these turbos dont need modifying to fit as most aftermarket ones do.

Is the faster spooling from a BB high flow significantly faster than a journal high flow?

Please dont take me as being a party pooper.Im just gathering as much info as i can like everyone else.

As they say a smart choice will be an informed one.

CHEERS

Dave

I have been advised that there is a 30% power loss through the drive train... therefore 500hp = 372.85kw - 30% = 260.99rw/kw... please correct me if i am mistaken...

Cheers

You are very very sorely mistaken. Here's the theory:

Car A makes 100hp at the engine and 50hp at the wheels - (a 50% loss in your terms) It therefore loses 50hp through means such as heat, noise, gearbox/clutch losses, tyres, drag and other drivetrain parasitic losses.

We then double the horsepower of Car A to 200hp at the engine. It now makes 150hp at the wheels losing the same amount of power through the same drivetrain. The gearbox, clutch, tyres, drag etc are all roughly the same. Using your terms, the car could now be said to be losing only 25% of its power through the drivetrain.

Just for kicks, lets increase the power output of Car A to 1000hp. Care to guess what percentage loss will now be measured at the back wheels? Not the 50% of the first example, nor the 25% of the second example.

The point is, any given drivetrain can't just automatically eat up a given percentage of engine horsepower. It's not possible. The last example wont lose 25, 30 or even 50 percent of it's power through the drivetrain used in the example. The facts of the matter are that in general, the most you can expect to lose through any auto or manual RB-engined combination is somewhere in the order of 55 - 80kW. This has been demonstrated many many times if you need confirmation. What's more, it's plain old common sense.

Hope this helps,

Adrian

NYTSKY - As proven by many members inc Sydneykid, BB turbos do spool up much faster then JB turbos. And for $1550 your getting a direct bolt on unlike other after market turbo's which need new water + oil lines, manifold, dump pipe and are a DEFECT! this high flow will give you the "stealth" look and also suprise all those who think ur car is stock... I am in the exact same boat as you and wanted the best option... but why pay $1000 for a JB high flow when its a down grade to the stock item? for an extra $550 your getting a BB item that will maximise your cars power output as well as last much longer then a JB turbo.

Adrian - Thanks for clearing it up! However im just going by what Tune house and Rigoli have advised me about these units... if a GCG 450hp unit is producing 260+ in some cars, then a Garrett 500HP unit should do just the same ifnot more....

Thanks to all those who have ordered via person... should get yours soon..

Regards,

Sarkis

Edited by QRI05E

well done dude :wave: i cant wait to get my slide highflow,aaron is a top bloke.i am looking at getting around 350hp at the wheels when i get more mods for the highflow like injectors,aftermarket ecu :mad:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...