Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone out there please tell me how to tell the difference between a standard R33 GTR and a V-Spec Model.

I know the obvious one - the V-Spec has an Active LSD withe a couple of wires coming out of it, but what else is there that I should look for ? I am in the market for a GTR, and am looing for a V-Spec in particular, but want it to be the real deal.

Is there not a way you can tell from the Chassis number or something like that ?

Any help would be much appreciated !

Cheers

Woza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150926-how-to-identify-a-true-r33-v-spec/
Share on other sites

The vehicle serial will have a W

The AWD is controlled by a slightly faster processor

it has a sticker on the back and

it has a pox active rear diff that no-one will know what to do to fix it if it goes bang

oh and the buyer has probably wasted about 2-5 grand over a "standard" with a proper 2-way diff which would have paid for replacement suspension since the slightly firmer V-spec suspension has now shagged it.

:(

So GTRGeoff.....I take it you are not a fan of the V-Spec ?

to be honest I would like some guidance as to whether or not I should get a V-Spec or a normal GTR. From your response it sounds like I shouldnt ?

Any other opinions etc out there ?

The vehicle serial will have a W

The AWD is controlled by a slightly faster processor

it has a sticker on the back and

it has a pox active rear diff that no-one will know what to do to fix it if it goes bang

oh and the buyer has probably wasted about 2-5 grand over a "standard" with a proper 2-way diff which would have paid for replacement suspension since the slightly firmer V-spec suspension has now shagged it.

:(

Edited by woza01

different suspension (but like mentioned already, probably already been replaced)

active lsd

attessa pro

I think the 33 vspec is not as rare as the r32 vspec so not realy worth alot more than the normal 33gtr. The extras can be handy but not realy a must have

There is basically no difference on the track in terms of laptimes, and as the cars age the diff is a real negative in terms of repairs if they go so that is a lot of money to pay for a $5 sticker. One of the members had no end of trouble diagnosing and repairing an active diff on a GTS25t S2.

Now if it was a 32 there would be a quantum leap in processor speeds and the 17" wheels and Brembo brakes so a worthy purchase (not to mention a later model and not a 89 model as is prevalent).

On a 34 the extras are quite significant but includes the underbody aero fittings as well.

Just do what a previous owner of mine did and buy the schticker. It means nothing to those that know but the playstation generation will wet themselves.

there is a whole heap of extra bracing underneath the car to stiffen it up more

basically pay no more , but if you find one then meh you might as well get it and be cool with the v-spec sticker at the back

Edited by arkon

Easiest way to tell is have a look at the rear diff.

V-Spec's have fins on the diff for cooling - Non V-Spec's do not.

I must say that when I was first looking for my GTR, I HAD to have a V-Spec because they were the better car (supposedly). Ended up with a standard GTR - couldn't be happier.

The average mortal would not be able to tell the difference in performance between the two.

Anyone who says they can is pulling their pud!!!

Look for the best car (condition) - not whether it is V-Spec or not.

^ yep the finned diff is the easiest way, but that can be changed easily, especially if the car has had a diff upgrade. My R32 has the finned V-spec diff cover, but it couldn't be a V-spec because it's an 89.

But as everyone says, it's not really gonna make much noticable difference except being able to say "it's a V-spec"

I'm still yet to see it or any documentation regarding this. The couple of V's I've looked seem no different to mine but they were quick looks and there may be something there.

I would like to know more too , all the bracing looks 100% factory and knowledgable performance workshops pointed it out as the v-spec bracing.

its quite noticable , all around the diff , rear axel , exhauist and up in the front of the chassis too

its a real pain to cause it knocks against my exhaust so if its not factory ill rip it out . it looks very very factory though....

i can post pics next time its on the hoist if it helps

Edited by arkon

Actually it was more than that, the A-lsd fix for PFC has been sorted for quite some time now. Oil problems this time but still an expensive fix for such a simple problem. And another A-lsd problem has occurred today as well.

The easiest way is by checking the ID plate ( blue plate on the firewall), as others said it has a W instead of a G in a none V-spec.

There are a lot of other differences, some very minor but everything can be changed so the ID is the best way .

There is NO extra bracing under the car in a V-spec, they are all the same V-spec and none have the same bracing. The finned diff is a good indication as is all the plumbing that goes to it . ALSD on the cluster ( how easy is this to change) . Brake ducts on te V-spec directing more air to the brakes is another . The strutts are different ( same colour so they look the same and they are interchangeable) and the ride is a little lower on the V-spec.

Other stuff is more difficult to see without taking stuff off ( like computers)

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...