Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the 3.0L twin turbo 2JZGTE motor is possibly the best engineered inline six built to date that is affordable. It has probably the best power to capacity ratio of any of the six cylinders available today, and are also a damn reliable bit of gear.

there is also a lot of jap aftermarket support for them too (which is not necessarily a good thing considering not all the jap spank makes things go faster).

All the RB26 fans will be in here in 1/4 of a second to defend the nissan stuff, so it boils down to you researching all the options yourself and deciding what is the best for you. an RB will always be an easier conversion into a skyline for example, but last time I priced an RB26 GTR motor it was twice the price of a 2J. :)

I own a mkiv TT and a 32 GTR and I can tell you from experience that the Supra engine wins hands down. Torque from the 2JZ is enormous from 2,000rpm and pulls like a freight engine to 6,000rpm. It flats out after that. The stock RB26 doesn't pull untill well past 3,500rpm and my modded one doesn't move until after 5,500 rpm. As a daily street machine, a BPU++ Supra eats anything in its path.

Then you lose the 4wd. Believe it or not, one of the Japanese tuning house has stuck a RB26 under a Supra hood and is racing the mutant with some success.

To give credit where credit is due, its relatively easy to spin the RB26 past 9k but doing even just 8k with a Supra will be much harder because of its long stroke design. The 6 speed has also got much shorter ratios meaning that if you're racing a GTR from a rolling start, when you shift from 2nd to 3rd, the guy next to you is right smack in the power band pulling a car length or two on you before your 3rd shift is complete. That's assuming both cars have similar power of course.

out of curiosity...my mate has a supra rz engine (i think its called), standard non-turbo supra. can he or is it possible for him to put a turbo in? i mean i know its possible but he seems to think that all he has to do is get the turbo and put it in (and only spend money on the turbo and installation-a couple of grand he rekons.). i thought that u would need a 2jz engine to cater for the turbo, or different wiring and along with the other shit to get it from a non-turbo to turbo.

Apart from different ECU, wiring, and different compression ratios you also can't just bolt the turbo manifolds to the NA block but I can't remember exactly what's the technical reason. The block is also different as there are oil squirters in the turbo models to cool the underside of the pistons. The NA block don't have this feature.

Ask your friend to check out www.mkiv.com. There's loads of info on mkiv and conversions. "Easiest" (and that's a relative term) way is to put in a 2JZGTE with harness, computer and the 6 speed but the conversion cost is not cheap. Economically, it might be cheaper for your friend to sell his NA and buy a turbo. Also check out the SX Engineering's website. I think they are developing a turbo kit specifically for NA Supras. Hope that helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...