Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm looking to buy an R33 GTST, there's a few for sale around here at the moment and I've been thinking about it for a while. Had a VR4 Cordia project going for a while but have outgrown that and since parted her out..

I've read through the FAQ section, found the 'I'm buying a skyline..' thread very useful. I've done a bit of searching but am having trouble finding much more info... never liked the invision search engine ;)

I'm trying to find information specs on GTST's... I'm after the differences between year models mainly, as some of the ones I'm looking at are quite early models (late 93).. but also info on different specs within the same year.

Also some R33-specific info would be great... particularly what tends to go wrong with them!

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151345-buying-an-r33/
Share on other sites

The search engine on this forum is easily good enough to dig up answers to your questions (which hvae been covered many many times before)

I tend to use the search field at the bottom of a specific forum and construct search terms like so

+r33 +common +fault* (the star covers fault, faults and faulty)

If you can afford series II (96 onwards) I'd go for that.

Remember that as with any car (especially turbo or just performance) a professional inspection, compression test and leak down test are recommended.

Good luck!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151345-buying-an-r33/#findComment-2816168
Share on other sites

The only problems i had with mine and they seem to be the most common with skylines is the misfire issue at 5000rpm

when you test drive the car bring it over 5000 rpm to check for this - often its sparkplugs needing to be changed, or a new set of coils ($600 odd)

Just do the usual checks and you should be sweet - they arent really prone to breaking down that i know of

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151345-buying-an-r33/#findComment-2816633
Share on other sites

When I bought mine it had a bad earth to the CAS and needed an Oxygen sensor.

My approach to buying cars is pump the seller with questions, if he/she doesn't give up the info - why not?

If after pumping them for as much info as possible you still like the sound of the car - go inspect it yourself. Take a pen and paper, write down EVERYTHING you notice is wrong. If you were told it's in good condition and it's not then walk.

If the car passes your personal inspection (in which you analysed the car like crazy and test drove it extensively) Then it's time for a professional inspection comp/leak down test - as to who pays you can work that out with the seller.

Once you hav ethe results of the pre-purchase inspection comp/leakdown tests you can negotiate a price.

Never be afraid to walk away, there's a lot of Skylines for sale and heaps of crap ones. Be picky!

Good luck and let us know if you buy one =D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151345-buying-an-r33/#findComment-2816659
Share on other sites

Sorry actiondan I meant to ask about this:

If you can afford series II (96 onwards) I'd go for that.

Why? Are there significant differences between S1 and S2 or are you just suggesting I get the latest I can?

I only ask because there's one in particular that I'm looking at and it's a 93.

Cheers,

Astaroth.

post-34566-1168572762.jpg

Edited by Astaroth
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151345-buying-an-r33/#findComment-2817180
Share on other sites

Yeah from the photos it looks very tidy. It's fairly stock - has a big cooler (600x300 or thereabouts), bov, new HD clutch, pod, exhaust, and obviously the wheels/kit/paint... no internal work or anything though, just the way I want to start.

Comes with a bunch of spares, according to the guy he had plans for it but he's had a kid now and it's not practical. There's seats and trims and stuff plus spare wheels and tyres etc.

135,000k's according to him, not really sure how to check that other than the general wear and tear of the car.

Think I might have a look in the next week or two, will have to give it a good working over. I got burnt when I bought the cordia (hence I decided to do the VR4 conversion)... was young and silly, lot more experienced now so not gonna let that happen again :O

He's asking $15k, without knowing much about shkyrines I'm not sure how reasonable that is (and of course I haven't seen the car yet...). It still has stock suspension so I'd want to rectify that almost straight away.. so there's money to be spent already :P

Oh and I meant to ask, do you guys have a 'I just bought a skyline and have some money to spend, where do i start modifying' sort of thread here? Can't seem to find anything.

Edited by Astaroth
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151345-buying-an-r33/#findComment-2817227
Share on other sites

There's a sticky thread up the top of this section which should have the answers you're after in regards to model differences, with links like this one, which allows you to compare all the different models, and their standard and optional features.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151345-buying-an-r33/#findComment-2817268
Share on other sites

SKY031 - thanks for that link, had a look through the stickies but must've missed that one. TBH the differences between S1 and S2 seem very minor so I don't think I'll discount S1's... if I find a good one I'll take it. That purple one I pic'd above is a really nice looking car so if it turns out to be a winner I don't think I'll be worried that it's not an S2.

S2 FTW!

Uh.... ok then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151345-buying-an-r33/#findComment-2817601
Share on other sites

One of the reasons i bought an s2 over the s1 besides the fact that i think they look better in stock form are some of the extra features like dual airbags, abs, smaller nicer steering wheel, more robust seat trim etc.

I think the s2 generally looks a lot more refined and not as dated with its shaper headlights and bonnet ridge, the stock fog lights in the front bar and the rear wing looks better than the s1. The s1.5 is not a bad option, bigger front bar and rear wing looks good with a nice grille.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151345-buying-an-r33/#findComment-2821456
Share on other sites

Thanks for that, might have a search for some photos of the different years... haven't noticed too many external differences but haven't been looking at them side by side..

Have been reading the sticky in the forced induction section, some great info there. The RB30 thread is f'ing great, but I have about 259 pages left to read :P lol. Cubes emailed me the summary document though (couldn't d/l it at work, thanks cubes!) and it's excellent... that'll definitely be something I think about over the next couple of years.

In the early stages I'd be looking to fit a suspension kit and do all the bushes etc, this assumes I buy the one I pic'd above cause it still has stock suspension. Can anyone link me to a fairly comprehensive suspension mod guide? I've found scattered info here and there but nothing that really covers the lot... the handling section seems more full of brake stuff than suspension :D I'm basically looking for a guide on a complete suspension overhaul, mainly to give me an idea of how much I would be looking to spend.

Also I'd like some info about ECU's - the most common here seems to be the PowerFC, am I right in that it literally just drops in and requires no modification? Also does it run the car as it came from the factory, everything operates as normal? And assuming it's tuned well does the car start and run like a factory car? When I put the VR4 in the cordia I ran a microtech and she was an absolute pig to start... ran fine once it was warm but cold start was terrible.

Hmmm I think that's enough for the moment. Thanks! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151345-buying-an-r33/#findComment-2823164
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...