Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What's that weird motor noise I get with my portable CD player?

[JSC]

======================================================================

Many people report problems while playing CDs from a portable CD player

into their car audio systems. The problem, stated very simply, has to

do with the stepping of the motor requiring a varying amount of current

and non-isolated power and audio signal grounds. Using a liberal

application of capacitors and inductors, this voltage variance can be

restricted to a window of 8.990 to 9.005V for a 9V CD player, yet even

the swing between these two levels is enough to cause annoyingly loud

noise on the outputs. It has been reported that this entire problem

can be solved by using a true DC-DC inverter at the power input to the

CD player.

So the stepping in the motor that pushes the laser around or the motor that varies the spin speed of the disc draws various amounts of current.

My motor or alternator whine noise happens when I listen to the radio too.

I also beleive this only happens to people who run RCA cables to an amp? That's when mine did it, anyway.

Edited by RANDY

Tried that too. Tried running the RCA's completely out of the car, then into the boot. No change.

Earthing the RCA's helped about 50% at the time. You just run a wire from the outer contact to somewhere metal on the car. It got rid of the noise quite a bit, but it was still there.

The noise apparently comes in when either the HU or the amp isn't grounding the negative part of the RCA cable properly. These cables carry 2v or more in them, so plugging them in and out while everything is powered up can kill the grounding fuse or track in either your HU, amp, or both!

I opened my HU when I had this problem, and found the ground track was burnt through. I bridged it with some wire, tested with a multimeter and put it back in. No change at all. I suspect it's blown somewhere else too.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've also got this problem & part of my trouble I believe is the stupid installers set the amp up with the rear speaker RCA connections to the amp jammed under the fuel pump relay. I have to rotate my amp the other way around, this will probably cure half my problem. But they also have not grounded the RCA's at the amp, so they had NFI (COMPLETE AUDIO U SUCK!)

grounding is always the problem here. it is caused from the wrong resistance termination on a end of line. for example i have no issues running cd or radio tuner. however i have a AUX which goes to a stereo lead so i can plug in ipods, phones etc to listen to music. because this line doesnt have a EOL resistance on it it humms with the alternator due to incorrect ground loop. easiest way to fix is u can get filters from a audio shop which u put at the speaker to filter out noise on ur grounding wire. just cut ur negative wire at the speaker and put it in just before the speaker. a capacitor would probably work as well assuming its big enough and doesnt explode. safer to get a proper kit from somewhere like jaycar.

grounding is always the problem here. it is caused from the wrong resistance termination on a end of line. for example i have no issues running cd or radio tuner. however i have a AUX which goes to a stereo lead so i can plug in ipods, phones etc to listen to music. because this line doesnt have a EOL resistance on it it humms with the alternator due to incorrect ground loop. easiest way to fix is u can get filters from a audio shop which u put at the speaker to filter out noise on ur grounding wire. just cut ur negative wire at the speaker and put it in just before the speaker. a capacitor would probably work as well assuming its big enough and doesnt explode. safer to get a proper kit from somewhere like jaycar.

Installing filter caps on the speaker wires is an absolute last resort as this will also affect the sounds of the audio, & not really a solution to a problem that shouldn't be there. If your problem is on the input to the head unit then that's where it has to be fixed. You may need to change your lead set up on your auxillary to cure you're issues.

The problem with my set up, is that the RCA cables have got a ground wire that's meant to be connected at the head unit & the amp & it hasn't been done, so the input to the amp is effectively floating, doesn't have the same ground reference as the head unit & therefore highly susceptable to interfearance. Getting it away from the bloody fuel pump relay will also help in my case.

Edited by JazzaR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...